GR20 Northern Half (from North to South)

Starting from the small ski station in the Asco valley, this route wastes no time in heading for the high ground below Monte Cinto (2,706 m). A long, steady climb leads from shady pines onto bright granite slabs and scree, with widening views over jagged ridges. After reaching the rocky shoulder near Pointe des Éboulis (2,607 m), the mood shifts as you drop into the wild upper Golo valley towards the hidden bowl of Tighjettu.

From the buildings the path quickly leaves the pistes and follows the Ruisseau du Tighiettu upstream, climbing on granite steps beside clear pools. Soon chains appear to protect short traverses across smooth slabs and ledges, before the trail steepens into stony zigzags. Higher up you pass Lac d’Argentu, then tackle a final tiring haul on loose scree to the col near Pointe des Éboulis, where cliffs fall away on both sides and the skyline of Paglia Orba (2,525 m) comes into view.

The descent into the Golo valley starts steep, weaving down gullies and boulder fields before easing onto gentler paths beside the stream. Small waterfalls, rock slabs and occasional pine patches brighten the way as you lose height. Near the bottom, the route leaves the main valley and climbs briefly into a side basin, where the refuge appears on a grassy shelf hemmed in by granite walls. Here you can drop your pack, soak aching feet in the river and watch the evening colours.

From the rocky hollow around the refuge, this shorter stage drops gently into the wild valley beneath Paglia Orba (2,525 m) and Capu Tafunatu (2,335 m). The path threads between boulders and pines, with balcony views of cliffs and the white ribbon of the Golo far below. Clear pools and smooth slabs invite a pause before the route turns towards a hanging basin, where the next refuge waits high above the river.

From the buildings you follow a stony track downhill, soon joining the Golo and its side streams. The trail meanders along the water, crossing smooth granite and small wooden bridges, past deep basins that glow turquoise in the sun. After a final series of crossings, the way swings away from the river and begins to climb on dusty zigzags, gaining height steadily towards the saddle above the valley.

Near the crest the terrain opens into rough pasture, scattered with rocks and low grass. A last push over broken slabs brings you to the refuge, perched on a shoulder with sweeping views towards the Niolu plateau and the jagged skyline of Paglia Orba. Once you drop your pack, there is time to watch the light change on the cliffs and to listen to the distant murmur of the river far below.

This long traverse links the rocky eyrie of Ciottulu di i Mori with the wide meadows around Manganu. The morning begins among bare ridges and the upper Golo river, then slips into dark pine forests and the open col of Vergio. Later the character changes again as you climb towards the grassy bowl of Lac de Nino, where streams meander through bright pozzines. A final rolling path leads across the plateau to the refuge, tucked above the Tavignanu valley.

From the hut the trail drops beside the young Golo, passing small waterfalls and smooth granite slabs near the bergerie de Radule. Wooden bridges and narrow paths lead you into dense laricio pine forest, before a gentler track brings you out at the buildings and chapel of the Vergio pass. After crossing the road, an old mule path climbs again through scattered pines and pastures, heading towards the rounded ridge of Bocca a Reta.

Beyond the crest, views open over Paglia Orba (2,525 m), Monte Cinto (2,706 m) and the broad basin that hides Lac de Nino. The path drifts down across sponge-like turf and shallow pools where horses and cows often graze. Following the newborn Tavignanu, you cross small streams and weave between granite blocks until the roofs of Manganu appear ahead. The refuge sits on a grassy step above the valley, a laid back place to cool your feet and watch the evening clouds.

From the quiet pastures around Manganu, the route quickly slips back into big mountain ground. A steady climb leads towards a serrated skyline above the Tavignanu valley, with Monte Rotondo (2,622 m) looming across the cirque. As you gain height, the grassy bowl falls away and a rocky ridge takes over, guiding you into a wilder world of shattered granite, hanging basins and hidden lakes that glint far below the passes.

From the refuge the path climbs gently at first, contouring above the Tavignanu before turning sharply into the main ascent. The trail threads between boulders and short rock steps towards Bocca alle Porte (2,255 m), where chains help on steeper slabs and the ground becomes more alpine. Beyond the col you follow an airy ridge past the summit of Punta alle Porte (2,313 m), balconies dropping to Lac de Capitellu and Lac de Melo, both set deep in a dark cirque.

Later the route dips off the crest, descending on loose stones and sandy zigzags into a high basin above the Restonica valley. The rock slowly gives way to patches of grass and scattered pines, and a stream appears beside the path. A final, easier traverse leads straight to the refuge on its grassy knoll, perched above converging valleys. Here you can unclip your pack, top up water and watch the last light fade from the grey walls of Monte Rotondo.

Beginning high on the shoulder below Monte d’Oro (2,389 m), this stage drops from open granite into a surprisingly green valley. The path follows the lively Manganello stream, where waterfalls, slides and deep rock pools sparkle between slabs. As the valley widens, chestnut and pine trees take over, before a final climb leads back into the open. The refuge appears on a grassy knoll, looking out over folds of forested ridges and the twisting course of the river below.

From the refuge you first descend on a rocky path, quickly trading alpine grass for heather, juniper and scattered pines. The trail joins the Manganello, crossing a wooden bridge and then following the river upstream. Clear pools and smooth boulders invite a pause, with cascades never far away. Passing shepherds’ huts and old stone walls, you continue along the water until the way finally leaves the stream and turns uphill through denser forest.

A steady climb on soft forest paths brings you back into more open ground, where scattered rocks and low shrubs return. Soon the roofs of the refuge come into view on a rounded shoulder above the valley. Stone buildings, grassy terraces and a nearby stream make it an easy place to linger. Once your boots are off, you can stretch out in the grass and watch the evening light drift over the ridge of Monte d’Oro.

From the grassy knoll beside the refuge you quickly rise into open high country. The path climbs towards the ridge of Punta Muratellu (2,141 m), with growing views of Monte d’Oro (2,389 m) and the deep valley holding Vizzavona. On the crest everything feels big and quiet, granite under your boots and rolling waves of forest far below. From here a long descent begins that slowly trades bare rock for the world of water and pines.

The trail follows the rocky Muratello ridge before dropping more steeply, weaving over boulders and smooth slabs where you occasionally use your hands. With each bend the forest comes closer and the sound of the Agnone stream grows louder. Lower down you wander past the Cascades des Anglais, where clear pools, natural slides and small bridges almost beg for a swim or a lazy lunch break.

Beyond the waterfalls the path widens and softens, following the river through shaded pine forest. Gradually the first houses appear between the trees and you feel everyday life returning. A final stretch past a chapel, the railway and a couple of cafés leads into the centre of the village. Here you can drop your pack, order a drink and look back to the granite ridge hanging high above the roofs.