GR20 Southern Half (from North to South)

From the airy ridge around the refuge, this long day leads from jagged granite to the grazing lands of the Cuscionu plateau and back into serious mountains again. The morning follows high ground with sea views in clear weather, before dropping to wide, marshy meadows where ponies and cows roam between streams. Later, a steady climb brings you onto the shoulder of Monte Incudine (2,134 m), followed by a final descent towards the remote shepherd country around the next refuge.

From the buildings a cairned path follows the crest over Punta di l’Usciolu and Punta Scaddatta (1,834 m), with early glimpses of the Tyrrhenian coast. After Bocca di l’Usciolu (1,805 m) the terrain becomes gentler and the trail drops towards the Cuscionu plateau, crossing springs and wet grassy hollows. Passing bergeries and low stone walls, you wander among scattered pines and free roaming animals while the skyline of Monte Incudine slowly grows ahead.

Near Bocca Stazzunara (2,021 m) the path swings onto rough slabs and begins a sharper descent, with views stretching to the Aiguilles de Bavella. Stony zigzags lead across gullies and patches of maquis before the gradient finally eases. The buildings of the refuge and surrounding bergeries appear on a grassy shoulder above the Asinao valley, a relaxed place to soak tired feet in the stream and watch the sun drop behind Monte Incudine.

This section of the trail starts in Refuge d'Asinau (1536 m) and ends in Refuge de Paliri (1055 m).

Highlights:
- Bergerie d'Asinau
- Crête de Pargulu
- Col de Bavella
- Several viewpoints along the way

Leaving the stony bowl of Asinau, this stage ties together jagged granite towers, shady forests and glimpses of the sea. A steady climb leads towards the skyline beneath Monte Incudine, then the path swings across a ridge facing the famous Aiguilles de Bavella. Here pink rock needles rise above dark pines, and on clear days the Tyrrhenian coast shimmers in the distance. Later, the mood softens as you descend towards Bavella and continue along rolling ridges to the remote perch of Paliri.

From the refuge the trail climbs on rocky steps and pockets of maquis to Bocca di u Pargulu, a wide notch with grandstand views of the Bavella spires. A balcony traverse follows, sometimes weaving through low pines, sometimes over smooth slabs, before dropping through denser forest towards the chapel and cafés at the road pass. Beyond the traffic, the way returns to quiet paths, undulating past springs, viewpoints and old boundary cairns as it edges steadily towards Paliri.

Near the end, granite gives way to scattered pines and pale rock terraces. The refuge appears suddenly above a small col, its stone buildings tucked among boulders with wide views to the Aiguilles de Bavella and the eastern coastline. Once your boots are off, you can wander to nearby lookouts, watch clouds slide around the towers and let the evening light pull colour out of every ridge and ravine.