From the quiet village of Tavanasa, follow the forest trails that wind up through alpine meadows toward the upper Val Frisal. The ascent is long and steady, with over 1,500 meters of elevation gain—your legs will know it's the first real day. As you leave the tree line, the landscape opens up into a wild cirque of rock, water, and snow.
About 7.5 kilometers in, the trees give way to a wide view over the valley. The Flim waterfalls glint in the distance, pouring silver down the cliffs. It’s a good place to pause and let the silence catch up.
The final approach to Bifertenhütte cuts across a rocky slope and leads to the hut tucked beneath the Tödi massif. It's quiet up here—just the sound of marmots, melting snow, and your own footsteps. Time to kick off your boots and let the altitude do the talking.
Leave Bifertenhütte behind and follow the rugged alpine trail as it climbs toward the high shoulder near the Kistenpass. Just beyond the cliffs overlooking the Limmernsee, the route crosses into Graubünden at Pass Lembra—where limestone gives way to loose scree and sky. The path skirts the flanks of Muttenberg, and with a short detour, you can reach its summit for a sweeping 360-degree view that makes the effort worthwhile.
The trail soon delivers you to the shores of the Muttsee, an austere reservoir framed by rock and reinforced by a 1-km solar farm glinting along the dam wall. This improbable lake at 2,500 meters is both an alpine landmark and a renewable powerhouse. The Muttseehütte stands nearby, a welcoming refuge after hours of exposed, high-mountain terrain.
But don’t stop just yet. Continue past the hut and descend a steep zigzag path to the Limmerensee below. Encircled by towering cliffs and glacier-capped peaks, the turquoise waters feel like a hidden world. The return climb is slow and quiet, retracing your steps to Muttseehütte as the day fades and the sky softens.
Leave the turquoise waters of the Muttsee behind and step onto one of the wildest segments of this traverse. First, follow the dam wall east and then up the rocky switchbacks to the Kistenpass. It’s a stiff climb, but the views stretch wide across Glarus and far into Graubünden.
Once over the pass, the trail becomes quieter and more alpine. You'll descend gradually into a stony high valley, then cross the Linth River where it still feels like a stream. From there, the trail climbs steadily again, always up, into solitude and scree.
The final stretch is steep. A short rope section helps with balance as you near the cliffs below Claridenhütte. And then it’s there, tucked into the rock. You made it. Just you, the air, and the sound of nothing at all.
From Claridenhütte, the trail climbs steadily for 3 km to the summit of Gemsfairenstock. At nearly 3,000 meters, the views are wide and dramatic—Tödi, Bifertenstock, and Clariden rise in every direction, and a shrinking glacial lake shimmers below. It’s a beautiful but fragile landscape, shaped by time and change.
The descent begins with a turn along a new ridgeline, dropping toward the broad saddle of Fisetenpass. Set between Gemsfairenstock and Fisetengrat, the pass offers a quiet pause with sweeping views and a sense of crossing from one alpine world into another.
From there, the trail winds down into the Urnerboden, Switzerland’s largest alp. As you approach the small white Kapelle St. Erhard and the scattered homes of the village, the steepness gives way to stillness, and the valley opens wide to welcome you in.
