Advanced Traverse of the 3 Refuges: Ter i Freser

The route begins in the stone-built village of Queralbs and follows the wild upper valley of the River Freser. The trail quickly climbs steadily through forests and rocky gorges, always alongside the river. Gradually, the landscape opens up to reveal a wide alpine basin where the secluded Refuge Coma de Vaca is nestled amongst towering Pyrenean peaks.

You start walking along a road to meet River Freser, then follow its banks upstream on a well-marked trail. The route then climbs through shady woodland and past waterfalls, entering the narrow Gorges del Freser via sections of narrow rocky and gravel paths, footbridges, and short, steep zigzags beside the torrent and forest vegetation.

Leaving the gorge, the valley widens, the gradient becomes steeper at times, and the trail crosses pastures and stony slopes with views of Balandrau (2,585 m) and Puig de Fontlletera (2,581 m). A final moderate ascent through open meadows leads directly to the Refuge Coma de Vaca, which is perched on a terrace above the river. There, dinner, warmth and bunkrooms await.

This high mountain crossing links two remote mountain huts via the granite skyline of the eastern Pyrenees. Starting in the peaceful Coma de Vaca basin, the route climbs to the border ridge before dropping down into the rugged Carança Valley in France. Along the way, you will pass beneath the peaks of Bastiments (2,881 m), Pic de la Dona (2,702 m) and Gra de Fajol (2,714 m), enjoying sweeping vistas of ridges and cirques. You will then reach a secluded hut nestled amongst pine trees and pastures.

From there, the path follows a clear, cairned trail through the upper Freser Valley. It soon steepens through boulders and alpine grass until you reach Marrana Pass (2,530 m). The ascent continues into a wide cirque nestled beneath the rocky flanks of the Bastiments peak. Here, the panorama opens up to reveal views of the surrounding three-thousand-metre peaks.

A final push will bring you to a broad frontier col between Bastiments and Pic de la Dona at 2,820 m, the highest point of the day. The landscape suddenly drops away here towards France, with the serrated ridge of the Carança spread out beneath your feet. From Coll de la Geganta (2,606 m), the trail turns north and continues via a long descent into the Carança basin. First, it passes over stony slopes, then it crosses gentler, grassy terraces where ibex often graze.

The valley narrows again and a final traverse through a pine forest leads to the Refuge du Ras de la Carança, which is nestled on a shelf above the torrent. Here, you can leave your backpack, enjoy a drink on the terrace and settle into the dormitories for the night.