Hardcore GR11

Boots on, trailhead behind you and the GR11 stretching out ahead. You set off from the Pradera de Ordesa car park with a casual stroll past the Greenwich Meridian Marker a quiet show-off moment for anyone who likes to know exactly where they are in the world. From here, the trail follows the Río Arazas, with lush valley walls on either side and the distant sound of falling water. Then, the Soaso Steps hit you. A natural staircase of waterfalls that makes you stop and utter an involuntary "Whoa!"

Keep going and the forest will clear, opening out into the glacial bowl of the Soaso Cirque. This is where the scale shifts. Cliffs rise up around you and the wild Cola de Caballo waterfall crashes down as though the mountain were exhaling. This is the last flat section of the day. After that, the trail climbs hard and fast. The switchbacks become more challenging, the terrain becomes rougher, and you feel like you’re earning every metre. The views? Stupendous. The energy? Raw and real. This is the Pyrenees, not a postcard.

Eventually, the terrain flattens and the silhouette of the Refugio de Góriz appears, perched high on a rocky plateau. You made it! It's time to drop your pack, stretch your legs and settle in. As the sun dips behind the cliffs, head inside for a hot meal and a hearty helping of mountain comfort food. Welcome to the rhythm of the GR11 hike: eat, rest, repeat.

You start the day with a hearty mountain breakfast at the Refugio de Góriz. Strong coffee and slices of bread will wake your whole system up in that cold morning air. Then it’s time to set off. The trail heads east and, not long after, you are greeted by a hidden waterfall and your first sweeping views of the vast Añisclo Canyon. It's the kind of view that makes you stop in your tracks. It is deep and raw, carved straight into the soul of the Pyrenees by the Río Bellós over millions of years.

Then comes the climb. Añisclo Pass is calling, and it’s no walk in the park. You quickly gain altitude, switchbacking your way to 2,453 metres. At the top, you’re rewarded with 360-degree views of the Monte Perdido massif – pure mountain majesty. The trail stays challenging. You drop down past another cliffside viewpoint, then reach Las Fayetas: a steep and exposed section that demands your full attention. It’s loose, rocky and wild. Respect the terrain, especially in snowy or wet conditions.

The final descent into the Pineta Valley is long and tough on the legs. However, the silence of the forest and the changing scenery will give you a second wind. By the time the roof of the Refugio de Pineta appears below you, you're ready. You’ve climbed over 1,000 metres and descended nearly 2,000. That first sip of something cold and that plate of warm food? They'll hit the spot. Feet up. Dinner is served. That’s how you end a day like this.

You start your day with breakfast at the Refugio de Pineta. Enjoy hot coffee and the fresh mountain air, along with that familiar buzz in your legs from days gone by. The trail gently pulls you out of the valley, winding through the forest before opening up onto higher ground. The cliffs of Monte Perdido fade behind you. Ahead, the horizon tilts upwards, but the climb remains steady and rewarding. You’re in your stride now.

The route continues to wind uphill towards a wide mountain ridge. When you reach the top, you are rewarded with stunning views in every direction, stretching deep into the Pyrenees and even across the border into France. Then begins the long descent. It’s steady but smooth, winding down through rocky paths and back into the forest. The air grows warmer, the trail softens and your pace slows to match the landscape.

After 14.4 kilometres, the rooftops of Parzán come into view. It's just a quiet village, but after three hard days on the GR11, it feels like a finish line. You’ve climbed high, descended even higher, and crossed a significant part of the mountainous terrain. Boots off. Sit down. Dinner is served. You did it!