GR20 in Corsica: The Toughest Hut-to-Hut Trek

The GR20 is one of the many trekking options that France has to offer. Trekking in France should be on every trekker's wish list, starting with the breathtaking GR20 route. GR stands for Grande Randonnée, which is best translated as "long distance trail" in French. The GRs are a network of long-distance trails in Europe located mostly in France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Spain. The GR20 is considered to be the most difficult of all these routes and is located on the French island of Corsica, Corse in French, on the Tyrrhenian sea. Its Corsican name is Fra li Monti, which means "across the mountains" in Corsican.

If you are planning your GR20 trek, we advise you to go in late June or early September. During this time, most huts are open and the weather is not too hot. Also, the trail won't be as crowded as during July or August.

Between November and May, there is snow on the trails, which makes the trek quite dangerous. Also, during these months there are no hosts in the refuges, which means that you have to carry all the food. During winter, from February to April, the GR20 can only be completed by experienced cross-country skies with a professional guide. This winter variant of the GR20 is known as l'Alta Strada.

As mentioned above, Corsica is a French island on the Tyrrhenian Sea, also known as Corse in French. You can reach the island either by boat or by plane. There are 4 airports on the island, 2 in the north and 2 in the south. If you are planning on starting the trek from the north, then it is advisable to land in Calvi (CLY). If you are planning on starting from the south, the closest airport to Conca is Figari (FSC). The airlines flying directly to the island are Air France and Air Corsica, with flights departing from Paris, Marseille, and Nice. The flights take usually 1 to 1,5 hours.

You can also reach the island by boat. Between April and September, there are daily ferry rides from Toulon, Nice or Marseille. Of course, this option is cheaper than the plane but it takes longer. The ferry ride from the coastline to the island takes around 6 hours. If you want to take a ferry to the southern section of the island, it will be even longer.

The starting and endpoints of the GR20 are Calenzana village in the north of the island and Conca in the South. Vizzavona is the midway point and easily accessible if you want to walk one half of the trail.

Once you get to a port or airport in Corsica, it is quite easy to get to the trailhead, both north, and south. If you land in Calvi (north), you can take a 30-minute ride by bus or cab to Calenzana. A cab usually costs between 20 and 30 euros per ride while the bus costs around 8 euros. If you land in Figari (south), we recommend taking a bus to Conca. The ride is 2,5 hours long and taking a taxi to Conca can be quite expensive.

You can walk the GR20 trail in either direction, from north to south, or from south to north. Which is the best option? Well, it depends on your physical condition and what you expect from the whole experience. The trail can be divided into two parts: the northern part starts in Calenzana and stops in Vizzavona. It is the most difficult part, because of the steep and rocky paths, but it is also considered the most beautiful half. The southern part of the GR20 goes from Vizzavona to Conca (or the other way around) and is easier, but less spectacular. The Coscione plateau with its green meadows is, however, breathtaking.

You can walk in either direction through the whole trail or you can choose to walk any of the two halves. The traditional route starts in the north and ends in the south. Since the GR20 can be quite crowded and most hikers walk southwards, some people recommend starting from the south and making your way to the north.

The mountain huts along the GR20 offer basic accommodation and food. These refuges are under the regional Corsican natural park’s authority and can host 25-50 people depending on the hut. Hosts manage the huts from the end of May to early October. Outside of this time frame, the refuges are open but not manned and there is no food available.

The refuges usually have one large dormitory with wooden bunk beds equipped with mattresses. You can also sleep in a tent near the refuges. You can rent a tent at the hut as well. It is forbidden to camp in other places along the trail. Independent of which accommodation type you choose, you must always bring your own sleeping bag.

Huts do have electricity. However, charging your phone or camera can be quite a challenge given the number of trekkers and the limited number of sockets. Make sure to carry extra batteries or a (solar) powerbank with you.

What to expect in the huts

• Indoor kitchen and eating area
• Dormitory room with bunk beds
• The bunk beds have two levels and mattresses are side by side. Bring your own sleeping bag!
• Cold outdoor showers and toilets
• An outdoor kitchen with cooking facilities
• Bins for rubbish

Half board is not included when you book your accommodation. You can choose to carry food with you or you can get your meals at the huts. You can always find a freshwater spring in the vicinity of the refuges. You can also buy food and reserve a hot meal and breakfast. Bear in mind that the hot meals must be reserved upon arrival.

Breakfasts are often prepared the night before and handed out so you can leave as early as you want the next day. As regards lunch, if you are passing a refuge between 12h and 14h you will often find a small lunchtime menu with choices, such as cheese and omelets, pasta, Corsican soup, and plates of smoked charcuterie. If you order dinner (remember to ask for it as soon as you get to the hut!), it is usually served from 19h onwards. There may be more trekkers than seats available, so be patient. Dinner usually consists of three courses which vary from hut to hut. Bear in mind that you will be in the mountains, so don't expect over elaborated dishes. Also, you will be expected to bring your own knife to mealtimes, so don't forget to carry one!

Menus vary from one hut to the other and their meals usually depend on the stock they have. Hot dinners can cost between 15-20 euros, while breakfast and dinner cost around 8-12 euros each. Refuges are the only places where you can buy food and get drinking water along the trail. However, there are some stages where you can go shopping in the villages below. All refuges have an indoor kitchen that you can use. These are equipped with gas, water, and kitchen utensils. Remember to always keep a lighter, or match with you! You might find there are only 4 gas rings available for a large number of hungry trekkers, so try to be patient.

This spectacular trek is full of stunning views and breathtaking rock formations. Here are some of the highlights you will encounter during your trek:

• Cirque de la Solitude: a steep and challenging part between Refuge d'Asco Stagnu and Refuge de Tighjettu, where hikers have to climb using the chains bolted to the rock.
• Lac de Nino: a glacial lake in the middle of the grassy meadows between Refuge de Ciottulu di i Mori and Refuge de Manganu.
• Lac de Melo and Lac de Capitello: two glacial lakes surrounded by rugged rocks between Refuge de Pietra Piana and Refuge de l'Onda.
• Monte d'Oro: the 12th highest summit of Corsica.
• Monte Incudine (2134 m): the highest mountain of Corse du Sud (Southern Corsica) with great vistas of the Plateau de Coscione between Refuge d'Usciolu and Refuge d'Asinao.
• Aiguilles de Bavella: spectacular cliffs between Refuge d'Asinao and Refuge de Paliri.

Just like the Tour du Mont Blanc, another famous French trek, the GR20 is well marked with red and white rectangles on rocks, boulders, and trees. There are also small stone heaps along the trail. Alternative paths are marked with a different colour. Bear in mind that it is easy to get on an alternative path without meaning to or to lose your way, so having a good map and a compass is necessary.

As stated above, huts do have electricity. However, charging your phone or camera can be quite a challenge given the number of trekkers and the limited number of sockets. Having a charged phone is not just a luxury, it is also a safety measure. You might not need it for yourself, but if you come across an injured trekker, you will need to ask for help and a charged phone is key. Make sure to carry extra batteries with you or a solar charger.