GR20 in Corsica: The Toughest Hut-to-Hut Trek

Starting from the small ski station in the Asco valley, this route wastes no time in heading for the high ground below Monte Cinto (2,706 m). A long, steady climb leads from shady pines onto bright granite slabs and scree, with widening views over jagged ridges. After reaching the rocky shoulder near Pointe des Éboulis (2,607 m), the mood shifts as you drop into the wild upper Golo valley towards the hidden bowl of Tighjettu.

From the buildings the path quickly leaves the pistes and follows the Ruisseau du Tighiettu upstream, climbing on granite steps beside clear pools. Soon chains appear to protect short traverses across smooth slabs and ledges, before the trail steepens into stony zigzags. Higher up you pass Lac d’Argentu, then tackle a final tiring haul on loose scree to the col near Pointe des Éboulis, where cliffs fall away on both sides and the skyline of Paglia Orba (2,525 m) comes into view.

The descent into the Golo valley starts steep, weaving down gullies and boulder fields before easing onto gentler paths beside the stream. Small waterfalls, rock slabs and occasional pine patches brighten the way as you lose height. Near the bottom, the route leaves the main valley and climbs briefly into a side basin, where the refuge appears on a grassy shelf hemmed in by granite walls. Here you can drop your pack, soak aching feet in the river and watch the evening colours.

From the rocky hollow around the refuge, this shorter stage drops gently into the wild valley beneath Paglia Orba (2,525 m) and Capu Tafunatu (2,335 m). The path threads between boulders and pines, with balcony views of cliffs and the white ribbon of the Golo far below. Clear pools and smooth slabs invite a pause before the route turns towards a hanging basin, where the next refuge waits high above the river.

From the buildings you follow a stony track downhill, soon joining the Golo and its side streams. The trail meanders along the water, crossing smooth granite and small wooden bridges, past deep basins that glow turquoise in the sun. After a final series of crossings, the way swings away from the river and begins to climb on dusty zigzags, gaining height steadily towards the saddle above the valley.

Near the crest the terrain opens into rough pasture, scattered with rocks and low grass. A last push over broken slabs brings you to the refuge, perched on a shoulder with sweeping views towards the Niolu plateau and the jagged skyline of Paglia Orba. Once you drop your pack, there is time to watch the light change on the cliffs and to listen to the distant murmur of the river far below.

This long traverse links the rocky eyrie of Ciottulu di i Mori with the wide meadows around Manganu. The morning begins among bare ridges and the upper Golo river, then slips into dark pine forests and the open col of Vergio. Later the character changes again as you climb towards the grassy bowl of Lac de Nino, where streams meander through bright pozzines. A final rolling path leads across the plateau to the refuge, tucked above the Tavignanu valley.

From the hut the trail drops beside the young Golo, passing small waterfalls and smooth granite slabs near the bergerie de Radule. Wooden bridges and narrow paths lead you into dense laricio pine forest, before a gentler track brings you out at the buildings and chapel of the Vergio pass. After crossing the road, an old mule path climbs again through scattered pines and pastures, heading towards the rounded ridge of Bocca a Reta.

Beyond the crest, views open over Paglia Orba (2,525 m), Monte Cinto (2,706 m) and the broad basin that hides Lac de Nino. The path drifts down across sponge-like turf and shallow pools where horses and cows often graze. Following the newborn Tavignanu, you cross small streams and weave between granite blocks until the roofs of Manganu appear ahead. The refuge sits on a grassy step above the valley, a laid back place to cool your feet and watch the evening clouds.

From the quiet pastures around Manganu, the route quickly slips back into big mountain ground. A steady climb leads towards a serrated skyline above the Tavignanu valley, with Monte Rotondo (2,622 m) looming across the cirque. As you gain height, the grassy bowl falls away and a rocky ridge takes over, guiding you into a wilder world of shattered granite, hanging basins and hidden lakes that glint far below the passes.

From the refuge the path climbs gently at first, contouring above the Tavignanu before turning sharply into the main ascent. The trail threads between boulders and short rock steps towards Bocca alle Porte (2,255 m), where chains help on steeper slabs and the ground becomes more alpine. Beyond the col you follow an airy ridge past the summit of Punta alle Porte (2,313 m), balconies dropping to Lac de Capitellu and Lac de Melo, both set deep in a dark cirque.

Later the route dips off the crest, descending on loose stones and sandy zigzags into a high basin above the Restonica valley. The rock slowly gives way to patches of grass and scattered pines, and a stream appears beside the path. A final, easier traverse leads straight to the refuge on its grassy knoll, perched above converging valleys. Here you can unclip your pack, top up water and watch the last light fade from the grey walls of Monte Rotondo.

Beginning high on the shoulder below Monte d’Oro (2,389 m), this stage drops from open granite into a surprisingly green valley. The path follows the lively Manganello stream, where waterfalls, slides and deep rock pools sparkle between slabs. As the valley widens, chestnut and pine trees take over, before a final climb leads back into the open. The refuge appears on a grassy knoll, looking out over folds of forested ridges and the twisting course of the river below.

From the refuge you first descend on a rocky path, quickly trading alpine grass for heather, juniper and scattered pines. The trail joins the Manganello, crossing a wooden bridge and then following the river upstream. Clear pools and smooth boulders invite a pause, with cascades never far away. Passing shepherds’ huts and old stone walls, you continue along the water until the way finally leaves the stream and turns uphill through denser forest.

A steady climb on soft forest paths brings you back into more open ground, where scattered rocks and low shrubs return. Soon the roofs of the refuge come into view on a rounded shoulder above the valley. Stone buildings, grassy terraces and a nearby stream make it an easy place to linger. Once your boots are off, you can stretch out in the grass and watch the evening light drift over the ridge of Monte d’Oro.

From the grassy knoll by the hut you quickly head into the open high mountains. The trail climbs towards the ridge of Punta Muratellu (2,141 m), with ever wider views of Monte d’Oro (2,389 m) and the deep valley of Vizzavona. On the crest everything feels big and empty, granite under your feet and waves of forest far below. Then a long descent begins into a world of water and pines.

The path follows the rocky Muratello ridge and then drops more steeply, over boulders and smooth slabs where you are happy to use your hands now and then. With every bend the forest draws closer and the Agnone stream sounds louder. Lower down you wander past the Cascades des Anglais, where clear pools, natural rock slides and wooden bridges almost beg for a swim or lunch break.

After the waterfalls the path becomes wider and softer and you follow the river through shaded pine forest. Slowly the first houses appear between the trees and you feel the inhabited world coming closer. A final stretch past a chapel, railway line and small cafés brings you into the heart of Vizzavona. Here you can drop your pack, order a drink and look back at the granite ridge hanging high above the village.

This route leads you from the cool forests of Vizzavona up onto the open central ridge of Corsica. The day starts among chestnut and pine trees with the sound of rivers close by, then slowly climbs to grassy shoulders and scattered rocks. Higher up, views open to Monte Renoso (2,352 m) and the valleys of Gravona and Fiumorbo. The day finishes at the bergeries and ski station of E Capanelle, perched on a gentle saddle surrounded by rolling summits.

From the village you follow quiet lanes and forest paths, crossing clear streams near stone bridges and natural pools. The trail then begins to climb in long zigzags through beech and pine forest, passing old stone walls and the ruins of shepherds’ huts. Above Saparecce, the trees thin and the route gains a ridge with wide views back to Monte d’Oro and ahead to Monte Renoso. A rising traverse past the Bergerie d’Alzeta and open pastures leads towards the ski slopes.

Near the end, the terrain becomes gentler and tracks fan out across the grassy saddle. Soon you pass the first stone huts and ski buildings of E Capanelle. The refuge sits just above the road, close to the bergeries, with views over forested valleys and rounded summits. Once you arrive, you can drop your pack, refill water and settle on the terrace while the evening light softens the surrounding ridges.

Leaving the ski hamlet of E Capannelle, this stage trades the busy refuge terrace for long, quiet forest paths. The route contours the eastern flank of Monte Renoso, crossing grazing clearings and streams hidden under beech and pine. Far from the rocky crests of the north, the mood is softer here, with glimpses of round summits and distant villages. Later in the day the terrain steepens again as the way climbs back to the high ridge where the next refuge sits.

From the buildings a pleasant path leads through scattered pines to the bergeries of Traggette, then descends gently to the Casaccia bridge over the Marmano stream. The trail keeps a roughly level line across shady slopes, weaving between clearings, stone walls and old shepherds’ huts. Higher meadows and a short detour give views of the Pozzi wetlands, a patchwork of pools and bright turf. Gradually you drop to the road at Col de Verde (1,289 m), where the San Petru di Verde relais invites a pause.

After the col the GR turns back into the forest, climbing more steeply on a rocky path. Beech and pine thin as you approach Bocca d’Oru (1,846 m), where the ridge suddenly reveals both the Tyrrhenian coast and the interior peaks. A final airy traverse along the crest leads to the refuge, perched on a grassy shoulder just below the summit ridge. Once you arrive, you can watch clouds race over the skyline while the lights of the eastern plain appear far below.

This ridge-heavy day keeps you high above the valleys almost from the first steps out of the refuge. The path follows the long crest south, hopping from grassy knolls to broken granite and dwarf pines, with views to the Tyrrhenian coast on one side and the wild inland ridges on the other. When the air is clear you can pick out Monte Renoso behind you and Monte Incudine ahead, giving a real feeling of crossing the heart of Corsica.

From the refuge the trail climbs gently to regain the crest, then runs along rocky ribs and short grassy sections past Punta Capellu and a scattering of old shepherd shelters. Occasional descents into shallow saddles bring you into heather and low pines before the path kicks up again towards Bocca di Laparo, a panoramic notch between the Taravo and Fiumorbo valleys. The last part of the traverse dances over tilted slabs and knobbly blocks, always with the wind close at your shoulder.

Approaching the final ridge, the ground becomes rougher but the views grow even wider. The roofs of the refuge appear suddenly on a narrow shoulder, strung along the crest like a small stone village in the sky. Once you arrive you can drop your pack, refill water from the spring and watch evening clouds race over the ridge, while the lights of hamlets on the eastern plain begin to flicker far below.

From the airy ridge around the refuge, this long day leads from jagged granite to the grazing lands of the Cuscionu plateau and back into serious mountains again. The morning follows high ground with sea views in clear weather, before dropping to wide, marshy meadows where ponies and cows roam between streams. Later, a steady climb brings you onto the shoulder of Monte Incudine (2,134 m), followed by a final descent towards the remote shepherd country around the next refuge.

From the buildings a cairned path follows the crest over Punta di l’Usciolu and Punta Scaddatta (1,834 m), with early glimpses of the Tyrrhenian coast. After Bocca di l’Usciolu (1,805 m) the terrain becomes gentler and the trail drops towards the Cuscionu plateau, crossing springs and wet grassy hollows. Passing bergeries and low stone walls, you wander among scattered pines and free roaming animals while the skyline of Monte Incudine slowly grows ahead.

Near Bocca Stazzunara (2,021 m) the path swings onto rough slabs and begins a sharper descent, with views stretching to the Aiguilles de Bavella. Stony zigzags lead across gullies and patches of maquis before the gradient finally eases. The buildings of the refuge and surrounding bergeries appear on a grassy shoulder above the Asinao valley, a relaxed place to soak tired feet in the stream and watch the sun drop behind Monte Incudine.

This section of the trail starts in Refuge d'Asinau (1536 m) and ends in Refuge de Paliri (1055 m).

Highlights:
- Bergerie d'Asinau
- Crête de Pargulu
- Col de Bavella
- Several viewpoints along the way

Leaving the stony bowl of Asinau, this stage ties together jagged granite towers, shady forests and glimpses of the sea. A steady climb leads towards the skyline beneath Monte Incudine, then the path swings across a ridge facing the famous Aiguilles de Bavella. Here pink rock needles rise above dark pines, and on clear days the Tyrrhenian coast shimmers in the distance. Later, the mood softens as you descend towards Bavella and continue along rolling ridges to the remote perch of Paliri.

From the refuge the trail climbs on rocky steps and pockets of maquis to Bocca di u Pargulu, a wide notch with grandstand views of the Bavella spires. A balcony traverse follows, sometimes weaving through low pines, sometimes over smooth slabs, before dropping through denser forest towards the chapel and cafés at the road pass. Beyond the traffic, the way returns to quiet paths, undulating past springs, viewpoints and old boundary cairns as it edges steadily towards Paliri.

Near the end, granite gives way to scattered pines and pale rock terraces. The refuge appears suddenly above a small col, its stone buildings tucked among boulders with wide views to the Aiguilles de Bavella and the eastern coastline. Once your boots are off, you can wander to nearby lookouts, watch clouds slide around the towers and let the evening light pull colour out of every ridge and ravine.