> Run the southern Alta Via 1 in four days with a light pack
> Follow the trail along the foot of the Civetta from Rifugio Coldai to Rifugio Vazzoler
> We book the huts, you run
Midday at Rifugio Coldai, fifteen kilometres into the second day. The hardest climbing is behind you and the trail now runs along the foot of the Civetta, with its walls rising above you for the next nine kilometres. At the end of it is Rifugio Vazzoler, a shower and dinner.
Four days, about 76 kilometres and 3,600 metres of climbing. A bus takes you from Cortina d'Ampezzo to the start, from where you climb past the Cinque Torri to Rifugio Croda da Lago. The next day takes you over Passo Staulanza and along the Civetta to Rifugio Vazzoler, then past Rifugio Carestiato and Passo Duran to Rifugio Pramperet. The last day ends with a 2,100-metre descent to the bus at La Pissa. Three nights in mountain huts, no luggage transport.
This is for experienced trail runners who are at home on mountain trails. Days run from 11 to 25 kilometres with up to 1,060 metres of climbing, on rocky paths and long descents; most climbs you will power-hike. You carry everything yourself in a pack of about 30 litres: hut sheet, rain jacket, headlamp and food for the trail. We book the huts, you run. Deal?
A short opener to shake the travel out of your legs, on trails that Lavaredo Ultra Trail runners know well. Take bus 052 from Cortina d'Ampezzo to Parcheggio Rio Bianco (plan your trip at mycicero.it) and you are on the trail within minutes. Keep the pace easy today: three big days are coming.
From the bus stop you power-hike up to the Cinque Torri, the five rock towers above Cortina, passing Rifugio Scoiattoli and Rifugio Cinque Torri at around 2,200 metres. This is Lavaredo country: in the 120K race the course comes past the towers on its way to Rifugio Averau and Passo Giau. From the towers a long descent takes you down to about 1,700 metres. Let it roll if your legs feel good.
The day ends with a climb of some 350 metres to Rifugio Croda da Lago at about 2,040 metres, right next to Lago Federa. In the Lavaredo this is the last aid station before the final descent to Cortina. For you it means dinner, a bunk and the Becco di Mezzodì turning orange in the last light. About 11 kilometres, count on 3 hours.
The queen stage: 25 kilometres, more than 1,000 metres up and 1,350 metres down, with the Pelmo and the Civetta for company. Start early, eat at every hut and save something for the second half, because the trail along the Civetta is the best running of the four days.
Straight from the hut you climb to the cols below the Becco di Mezzodì, where the day reaches its high point at about 2,295 metres. The first stretch towards Forcella Ambrizzola is Lavaredo terrain too, only in the opposite direction. Then it is down to Passo Staulanza at kilometre ten, the place to refuel and fill your bottles, before the climb to Rifugio Coldai at 2,123 metres.
Here the Civetta takes over. Past Lago Coldai the trail traverses below its north-west face for nine kilometres, over Forcella di Col Negro and Forcella del Col Reàn, then drops past the Torre Venezia to Rifugio Vazzoler at 1,714 metres. Mostly runnable trail with a 1,000-metre wall above you: this is why you came. About 25 kilometres, count on 5.5 hours.
After the big one, a day to find your rhythm: 22 kilometres and just over 1,000 metres of climbing, mostly on runnable forest trails and tracks between 1,400 and 1,950 metres. Fewer people, more trees, and the Moiazza keeping watch from above.
From Vazzoler you run down to about 1,400 metres, then work your way up through the forest to Rifugio Carestiato below the Moiazza, nine kilometres in. A short descent brings you to Passo Duran, the last chance to refill your bottles and grab a coffee before the hut. From the pass you climb to a col at about 1,940 metres and traverse into the quiet Zoldo side of the mountains.
Rifugio Pramperet was built in 1923 at 1,857 metres and has just 25 beds, so dinner is a small affair with a handful of hikers and runners. Tomorrow ends with a 2,100-metre descent to La Pissa: go easy on the grappa. About 22 kilometres, count on 5 hours.
The last day starts with a climb of 500 metres straight from the hut and then drops more than 2,100 metres to the valley. Save something for the descent: that is where tired legs feel it.
In under three kilometres you climb to a col at 2,365 metres, the last high point of the trip. A steep descent takes you to Rifugio Pian de Fontana at about 1,620 metres, a good place for a final coffee in the mountains. From there the trail keeps dropping through the forest of Val Vescovà to La Pissa, at 458 metres.
The trip ends at the bus stop in La Pissa, where the bus takes you to Belluno. About 18 kilometres, count on just over 4 hours.
