Meran area: Waalwege, the Texelgruppe and Meran 2000
Hiking around Merano offers an unusual mix: you start in a spa town lined with palms and cypresses and within an hour you're on a Waalweg above the vineyards. The Algund and Tscherms Waalwege follow old irrigation channels almost without gradient, through orchards and chestnut groves, and are ideal in spring and autumn. Walks around Merano range from the Tappeinerweg right above the town to the alpine reaches of the Texelgruppe, a serious mountain massif with long ridges and remote valleys.
Meran 2000 is the town's local mountain: a cable car whisks you up to a plateau at around 2,000 metres, from where several routes set off, including to the Stoanerne Mandln and the Kratzberger See. Walking on Meran 2000 gives you a sweeping panorama as far as the Ortler and the UNESCO World Heritage Dolomites. The Val Passiria and the wilder Val d'Ultimo are the quieter flanks: the paths here see far less traffic than the well-known high plateaus further east.
Alpe di Siusi, Sciliar and Catinaccio
Walking on the Alpe di Siusi means crossing the largest alpine meadow in Europe, 56 square kilometres of pastureland with the Sassolungo and Sciliar as a backdrop. From Compaccio, the path network branches off in every direction, from broad meadow tracks for families to longer circuits around the Sciliar for endurance walkers. The sun shines here on around 300 days a year, and the altitude of 1,800 to 2,500 metres keeps walks on the Alpe di Siusi pleasant even in high summer.
The Catinaccio range adjoins to the south: red Dolomites walls, working alpine pastures and huts at the foot of the rock faces. Compared with the Meran area, the Alpe di Siusi is better developed for tourism and busier in high summer, but the Dolomites setting is unmatched.
Val Venosta: Sonnenberg, orchards and the Ortler
Walking in Val Venosta is above all about space and dryness. The valley lies in the rain shadow of the Alps and is the driest valley in Austria and Italy, giving it a character all its own: juniper heath, chestnut groves, orchards near Laces and Silandro, and the Ortler, the highest peak of the southern Eastern Alps, on the horizon. Walking the Sonnenberg in Val Venosta usually means an up-and-down between villages and farmsteads with magnificent valley views.
The Val Martello and Val di Solda are the quiet side valleys, barely developed and ideal for anyone seeking real solitude. At the upper end lies Glorenza, South Tyrol's smallest walled town, and the Reschensee with its famous submerged church tower. If you want to combine Val Venosta with Merano, the Vinschgau railway makes it easy.
Eisack Valley and the Dolomites' edge: Bressanone, Plose and Funes
The Eisack Valley is South Tyrol's main thoroughfare, with Bressanone as its cultural centre and Chiusa as a picturesque gem. Walking around Meransen in the Gitschberg-Jochtal shows a quieter side of South Tyrol: a sun-drenched plateau, alpine huts and a panorama stretching from the Dolomites to the Zillertal Alps. The Plose above Bressanone offers an extensive network of paths above 2,000 metres.
Val di Funes is the quiet treasure chest of the region: narrow valleys, green pastures, and then suddenly the Geisler peaks, a Dolomites massif that ranks among the most photogenic anywhere. Val Gardena sits right behind it as the gateway into the Dolomites proper. Compared with the Alpe di Siusi, the Eisack Valley is considerably quieter and less developed, ideal for anyone who values a sense of discovery.
Pustertal and Ahrntal: Kronplatz, Lago di Braies and the Tre Cime
The Pustertal is the gateway to the high Dolomites: Brunico as your base, the Kronplatz as a widely visible plateau, and Lago di Braies as one of Europe's best-known mountain lakes. To the south rise the Dolomites with the Tre Cime and the Sesto Dolomites. The Ahrntal to the north has a different character altogether: long, narrow, with glaciers in the background and alpine pastures halfway up. Compared with the Meran area, the Pustertal is more alpine and less Mediterranean; compared with Val Venosta, it's better known and busier.