Annapurna Circuit Trek: How to Hike Around the Annapurnas

Let me first tell you a little bit about my own experience. Over the past 20 years I have worked in the mountain tourism industry in various roles. I have written trekking guide books for Tajikistan and Tunisia, I train local hiking guides in Uganda and as a trekking guide I have led groups in the Indian Himalayas, the Karakoram Range in Pakistan, the Pamir mountains in Tajikistan and the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal. First-hand experience is invaluable and for you, as a trekking enthusiast, it’s essential to get advice from someone who has actually done it!

Jan on top of the Thorung La

In the late 1970’s, when people started venturing into the Nepali Himalayas, the Annapurna Circuit was one of the first trekking routes to open for foreigners. In those days it took 23 days to hike around the Annapurna Massif. Fast forward to the present day, lots has changed. We’ll talk later about how trekking routes have changed in the past two decades, but one thing is for sure. The mountains of the Annapurna Massif are as stunning as they were 50 years ago.

The Annapurnas are close to Pokhara, about 6 hours west of Nepal’s capital Kathmandu. The small city, located on the shores of the stunning Phewa Lake, is the gateway to the Annapurna Massif. The Annapurna Circuit itself is a tea house trek, which means you stay in local guesthouses on the entire route. From the forested valleys at an elevation of 900 meters you’ll ascend to the Thorung La, the highest point of the trek at a whopping 5416 meter above sea level. The landscape gradually changes as you climb higher up the valley. Each day the giants of the Annapurna Massif reveal themselves a little bit more and your surroundings transform into a rugged alpine environment. The villages counter balance the mountains’ wild character. The tea houses are cozy and warm and you’ll be served endless cups of tea.

After scaling the Thorung La the route drops down into Lower Mustang, a high altitude desert with a completely different landscape. After the town of Jomsom the route continues to the hot springs of Tatopani, where you can soak and relax with fellow trekkers and locals alike. The final highlight of Annapurna Circuit is the climb up Poon Hill from Ghorepani. This is one of the most majestic viewpoints in Nepal, looking out over the entire Annapurna chain and spectacular mountains like Machapuchare and the 8167m high Dhaulagiri.

The Annapurna Circuit difficulty is quite low from a technical perspective. It's only walking and I found the path in good condition in most places. It also helps that you stay in a guesthouse each night rather than a tent. You can get a proper rest without having to worry about logistics or getting cold. It really is the Annapurna Circuit altitude that makes the going tough sometimes. After all, it is a trek at high altitude, culminating to an elevation of 5416 meters on the Thorung La. In my experience, the Annapurna Circuit length also adds to the strenuous nature of the trek. The shortest version we offer involves 170 kilometers of trekking. On some days the distances are more than 20 kilometers. Those factors make the trek hard, whether you’re a novice or a seasoned hiker. You feel your body getting tired after a prolonged time on the trail. But maybe because of that, it feels like a true sense of achievement finishing the route from start to end. I am convinced when you do some training for the Annapurna Circuit and set off with the right mindset it is doable for most trekkers.

The Annapurna Region, along with most of the other trekking areas in Nepal, has four distinct seasons. Spring, summer, autumn and winter. The months from March to May, pre-monsoon, and from October to early December, post-monsoon, are the most popular for hiking the Annapurna Circuit. Every season offers its own excitement and atmosphere and in principle, you can go trekking year-round. There are good reasons why spring and autumn are considered the trekking season. Below we’ll give you a run-down of what each of the seasons are like.

Spring

Spring (March-May) is the high season and trekkers from around the globe come to the Annapurna Region in large numbers. In springtime, the temperature is pleasant, the precipitation is low and the hiking conditions are great. On the trail there’s a lot of excitement and anticipation to cross one of the highest mountain passes in the world for trekking, the Thorung La. It does get busy, but therefore it’s a great time to connect with like-minded adventurers. While temperatures in daytime along the trek are balmy, the temperature around the Thorung La can be very cold in the early morning, when you cross the pass. Check our complete Annapurna Circuit packing list further below in this blog post.

Summer

Summer season falls in the months of June, July and August. Summer is the month with higher temperatures and in that sense it is quite pleasant. However, this is also the monsoon season, and it rains a lot. The chance of seeing the mountains around you is smaller as it is cloudy most of the time. The trail will be wet and slippery and there is an increased risk of landslides. And leeches are very active during these months. On the flipside, it’s not very busy on the route and the traditional villages feel more serene.

Autumn

Autumn in the Annapurna Region (September, October, November) is, like springtime, prime trekking season with similar trekking conditions. There is one difference. The air in spring is sometimes a little hazy due to the dust in the atmosphere. Post-monsoon the air is very clear, allowing for stunning views of the mountains.

Winter

Winter season runs from December to February. This period is the toughest time to trek on the Annapurna Circuit. With the Thorung La elevation exceeding the 5000 meters mark, it gets extremely cold. Night temperatures drop to -20 degrees Celsius. Add wind and snowfall and you’ve got yourself a proper winter expedition. Why do we still run the Annapurna Circuit trek in winter? We work with some of the best trekking companies in Nepal. Besides trekking trips they also organize climbing expeditions to some of the highest peaks in the Himalayas. Our partners can keep you safe and comfortable, even in these cold conditions. And you will probably have the entire trail to yourself!

During the last 20 years a lot has changed in the Annapurna Region. In the name of progress, the lower parts of the Marshyangdi Valley have been made more accessible by building. Originally, the Annapurna Circuit route always started in Besisahar. Nowadays some tour operators opt for a start deeper into the valley as a dirt road has been built all the way to the mountain village of Manang. Bhulbhule is our choice to start the trek. From here you can avoid the road and hike on walking paths rather than the road. The biggest change however is the road development on the western side of the route. In recent years, a road has been constructed from Pokhara to Jomsom and extended even to the village of Muktinath. Some parts of the road are tarmac, some are gravel. Regardless, it has had a big impact on the original Annapurna Circuit itinerary. Especially between Jomsom and Tatopani most tour operators cover this section by car, as the alternative would be walking on a relatively busy road. From Tatopani trekkers can follow the original route again towards Ghorepani, Poon Hill and beyond. Having said all this, the Annapurna Circuit remains one of the most spectacular treks in Nepal, simply because the actual landscape and culture hasn’t changed much.

The Thorung La is no doubt the crux of the trek. Here, the Annapurna Circuit elevation reaches its absolute max at 5416 meters above sea level. It is an old trading route and connects with Tibet. The altitude of this mountain pass is higher than any mountain in the European Alps including Mont Blanc. In height it is comparable to a big mountain like Mount Elbrus in the Russian Caucasus. Do you need to acclimatize to avoid altitude sickness? For sure! Do you need special skills to cross the Thorung La? The answer is no. You just need to be fit!

It is a bit like scaling a mountain, but you are walking up rather than climbing. The day starts very early and you basically hit the trail before sunrise. The guides are doing the pacing to make sure you don’t head up too quickly. The path itself is not that steep, but you will feel the thin air at this altitude. From around 5000 meters we were walking on snow, with a good track carved out by the people who had gone before us. The snow really adds to the adventurous feeling of scaling a mountain pass this high. Looking back you can see all the big peaks of the Annapurnas as if you are at the same level with them. Perhaps my most magical moment on the entire trek was just before sunrise while going up the Thorung La. Alpenglow lit all the Annapurna peaks bright pink, with a steel blue sky as a background.

Reaching the Thorung La pass was an incredible, rewarding experience. As a guide I was very proud that each group member made it to the top, although it wasn’t easy. And there was still 1600 vertical meters of descent to go to the village of Muktinath. Despite that, I believe that everybody with willpower, stamina and a sense of adventure can do it.

For trekking on the Annapurna Circuit, you need the following permits:

TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System):

Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) Permit

An ACAP Permit is obligatory for individuals who wish to explore the trekking routes within the Annapurna region. It is overseen by the National Trust for Nature with the primary goal of safeguarding and preserving the region's wildlife and natural environment. The funds gathered through this permit are dedicated to conservation efforts.

For each individual embarking on a single-entry trek, the cost of an ACAP Permit is Rs. 3000 (roughly USD25), regardless of the duration of the stay. These permits can be acquired in either Kathmandu or Pokhara, and there are designated checkpoints along the trail to maintain your trekking records.

Tea houses are small hotels known as Bhatti. These are small hotels and you can expect a certain level of comfort. However comfort in this high, remote region is relative. Tea houses are comfortable to the extent that you have a roof above your head and that you can enjoy warm, home-cooked meals. They are run by local families who have opened their houses to trekkers passing by.

Trekking in Nepal has become very popular in recent years, and more and more tea houses have popped up along Nepal’s trekking routes. The more popular your route, the better the quality of your tea house is. Hence, the tea houses on the Annapurna Circuit Trek are good value for money. You can expect flush toilets, hot showers and in some cases even wireless internet. The use of these amenities is usually at an additional charge.