Island Peak Nepal: Reach 6000m In The Shadow of Everest

Island Peak, also known by its local name Imja Tse, was first climbed by the Swiss mountaineer Hans-Rudolf von Gunten in 1956. He used the climb as an acclimatization trip for the third ascent of Mount Everest. It was named Island Peak as from the nearby village of Dingboche it appeared as an island in a sea of ice. The Nepali authorities renamed it to Imja Tse in 1983, but the name Island Peak is still its popular name. Standing tall at 6189 meters, the mountain is effectively part of a massive ridgeline coming down from Lhotse and is only a few kilometers from the Nepal-Tibet border.

Island Peak Base Camp sits roughly 16 kilometers east from the classic Everest Base Camp route at an altitude of 5200 meters, next to Island’s Peak glacial lake Imja Thso. Although there is a high camp at 5500 meters, most teams will head straight to the Island Peak summit from BC, especially those who have acclimatized on a trek to EBC. Due to glacial recession, the route to the summit involves crossing a couple of wide crevasses on fixed metal ladders. The toughest part of the climb is the final wall to reach the summit ridge. It involves using a jumar on a fixed line to pull yourself up, while kicking steps in the hardened snow. On descent, you abseil from this same rope. To increase the chances of reaching the summit, we built in an extra buffer day on our Everest Base Camp with Island Peak.

Climbing a mountain above 6000 meters is never easy. It takes determination, grit and lots of preparation to reach these extreme altitudes. Reaching the summit of a six-thousander feels like an incredible achievement, having pushed the very limits of your body. The views are worth it!

The term Trekking Peak is somewhat misleading. It is a reference from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and it refers to altitude limitations rather than technical difficulty. Generally speaking, a mountain below 6600 meters is a trekking peak. The NMA published a list of 27 of those peaks, varying in difficulty and altitude. The Island Peak height is 6189 meters and is on the trekking peak list. You need to obtain a special permit to climb it. Other well-known trekking peaks are Mera Peak, Cholatse and Chulu West. Despite the word trekking suggesting it’s only a hike up, you need mountaineering equipment to climb up most of these mountains. In the next chapter we’ll delve a little deeper into the difficulty of climbing Island Peak.

The best way to acclimatize for an Island Peak ascent is to combine it with a trek in the Everest region. A trek to Everest Base Camp Trek is the perfect preparation for an Island Peak ascent. This allows for proper acclimatization while you can spend more time in the Everest region. A typical trek begins after a short flight to Lukla. The trails will take you to Phakding and on to the capital of the Khumbu Namche Bazaar. Here we will spend two nights for acclimatization to limit the risks of altitude sickness. The trekking continues from Tengboche to Pheriche and to Lobuche. These Sherpa villages are rich in culture with chortens, mani walls, museums and fantastic views of the Himalayas.

Before heading to Island Peak you will trek to Everest Base Camp and climb to Kalapathar. Kalapathar is popular with hikers as you can enjoy a sunrise or sunset with views of Mount Everest. Finally we hike to the Island Peak BC and climb the summit on day 12. The hard work is rewarded by a 360 degree panoramic view of mountains like Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Makalu. From there we descend all the way back to Lukla where our climbing adventure ends.

Climbing a mountain over 6000 meters can be a daunting idea. Apart from the extreme altitude, you may see pictures of Island Peak expeditions with fully equipped mountaineers, jumarring their way up on a steep, snow-covered slope. These 3 points will debunk your perception that Island Peak is only for “real” mountaineers:

1. You are guided by very experienced Sherpa guides, who climbed Island Peak dozens of times with novice mountaineers. They know exactly what to do and how to coach you.

2. The guides will teach you the ropes (pun intended). How you walk on crampons, how you use a jumar to haul yourself up a fixed rope and how to self-arrest a fall with an ice axe.

3. The angle of a slope can be deceiving on pictures and film. It’s not a vertical wall you’re going up, but the steepest part is briefly around 60 degrees.

All this said, it is by no means easy. The climb is at a very high altitude, higher than any mountain in Europe, Africa, Oceania and Antarctica. It is physically and mentally demanding to climb, especially with equipment you may not have used before. In some sections, there are ladders across crevasses. You’ll be attached to a fixed line, but this is not a place for people with vertigo. Also you start the climb in the middle of the night. Being that high, remote in the dark can feel quite intimidating. Can you do it? If you are very fit, determined and you have an adventurous spirit we think you are able to make it to the Island Peak summit.

The Everest region shares its trekking season with many other mountainous areas in Nepal that are vulnerable to monsoon rains. In the pre-monsoon period, during the Northern Hemisphere Spring, climbing conditions are favorable. The weather is not as chilly as winter, and precipitation is low. It is the prime season for climbing peaks like Island Peak, particularly in April and the first half of May. In June the monsoon starts and there is no climbing until late September. The autumn season resembles spring in many ways, with one notable difference – the air is clearer due to the monsoon rains. The climbing window closes at the end of November, when temperatures start to drop well below freezing level. We don’t offer Island Peak climbing between early December and early March.

For trekking to Everest Base Camp and climbing Island Peak, you need the following permits:

TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System)

This permit is important for every trekker wishing to trek in Nepal. From the Annapurna Circuit the trek to Poon Hill, all trekking routes require this permit. This costs NRS 2000 per person. This equals about 17 USD or 15 EUR. Alternatively, your trekking company arranges you a location permit in Lukla which costs around 20 USD.

Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

For entering the Sagarmatha National Park, the park that is home to the Mount Everest Region, you need to obtain an entry permit. This permit costs 30 USD + government tax.

Island Peak Climbing Permit

In addition to all the above mentioned permits, your trekking company also takes care of your Island Peak climbing permit. Without a valid permit you are not allowed to climb Island Peak.

Training for high-altitude mountaineering involves a combination of cardiovascular fitness, strength training, acclimatization, and specific skills related to mountaineering. Here are some general guidelines:

1. Cardiovascular Fitness

- Focus on aerobic exercises such as running, cycling, swimming, and hiking to build cardiovascular endurance.

- Include interval training to simulate the variable intensity of mountain terrain.

- Aim for long-duration workouts to build stamina.

2. Strength Training

- Develop overall strength, with a focus on the lower body (legs) and core muscles.

- Include exercises like squats, lunges, step-ups, and core workouts.

- Incorporate functional movements that mimic the demands of mountaineering.

3. Altitude Training

- Gradual acclimatization is crucial for high-altitude climbs. Spend time at higher elevations to allow your body to adjust.

- If possible, plan pre-expedition trips to gradually increase your exposure to higher altitudes.

- Consider using altitude simulation devices or hypoxic tents for simulated altitude training.

4. Specific Skill Training

- Learn and practice mountaineering skills such as rope work, ice and rock climbing, and crevasse rescue.

- Familiarize yourself with the use of specialized gear, including crampons, ice axes, and harnesses.

5. Load Carrying

- Practice carrying a backpack with the gear you'll need during your climb to simulate the conditions you'll face.

- Gradually increase the weight to build strength and endurance.

6. Nutrition and Hydration

- Pay attention to your nutrition, ensuring you have a well-balanced diet with adequate protein, carbohydrates, and fats.

- Stay well-hydrated, as dehydration can exacerbate the effects of altitude.

7. Mental Preparation

- Develop mental resilience as mountaineering can be physically and mentally challenging.

- Practice stress management techniques, visualization, and mental focus.

8. Medical Check-up

- Before embarking on a high-altitude expedition, undergo a thorough medical examination to ensure you are physically fit for the challenges.

9. Progressive Training

- Gradually increase the intensity and duration of your workouts to avoid overtraining and reduce the risk of injury.

10. Rest and Recovery

- Include adequate rest days in your training schedule to allow your body to recover and adapt.

Always consult with a healthcare professional or a certified trainer before starting any high-altitude training program, especially if you have pre-existing medical conditions. Additionally, seek guidance from experienced mountaineers or hire a certified guide for personalized advice based on your specific goals and the requirements of your planned ascent.

In addition to the trekking equipment, you need mountaineering equipment for the Island Peak ascent. These items are not included in the price, but you can rent them at a reasonable price. Below you can find the list with extra items:

- Helmet

- Climbing Harness

- Karabiners

- Jumar device

- Ice axe

- C2 Crampons

- Double-layered mountaineering boots