Mera Peak: Climbing Your First Six-Thousander

Mera Peak is a remote mountain in Makalu Barun National Park. Unlike other trekking peaks such as Island Peak, it is truly off the beaten track. The first ascent was made by Sen Tenzing and Col. Jimmy Roberts on May 20th 1953, only days before Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Everest. Over the years the mountain has become a popular objective for climbers and trekkers, due to its straightforward approach to the summit.

From the airstrip in Lukla you veer off the Everest Base Camp route and enter a little visited area, only of interest with trekkers and mountaineers. It’s a wonderful trek through pine and rhododendron forests, following the course of the Hinku Drangka river. This wild, unspoilt valley harbors wildlife you would never encounter on the more popular trekking routes, such as the red panda, different species of leopard including the elusive snow leopard, deer and the black bear. You still have to be lucky to spot one of these.

From the highest permanent accommodation at Khare you start the actual climb to the summit of Mera Peak. Shortly after leaving Khare you rope up and start ascending on the Mera Glacier. A short night of camping is spent on a fantastic vantage point halfway the mountain, with stunning views across the biggest cluster of the tallest peaks in the Himalaya’s. The summit push starts in the middle of the night. The gradual climb, with a short punchy final push, takes about 5 hours under the stars with the aim to be on the summit by sunrise. After enjoying 360 degrees views across the sea of mountains around you, you’ll start the long way down to Lukla.

While Mera Peak is classified as a non-technical climb, basic mountaineering skills are definitely an advantage. Climbing this mountain involves navigating a whole set of challenges, both physical and mental. At an elevation of 6,476 meters, the trek demands a high level of physical fitness. Intense cardiovascular training should include activities like hiking, running, and cycling and is essential to build the stamina necessary for the strenuous journey. Practicing with mountaineering tools such as crampons, ice axes, and ropes help you get ready for the Mera Peak climb. At Bookatrekking.com, we believe that prior long-distance trekking experience, like the Annapurna Circuit or Everest Base Camp trek, is essential to have an idea what it takes to do an expedition like this. A mountaineering course can further refine your skills on the mountain. All this prep makes you more comfortable during the climb and you’ll enjoy the experience much more.

Before you make your way to Nepal, it’s a good idea to do a medical sports test, measuring things like heart health, blood saturation and VO2 max. This could be part of your overall cardio training. You should also pay a visit to your dentist. The pressure difference at altitude could trigger underlying dental issues. It’s obviously better to get it fixed before you go to avoid backstreet dentistry high up the mountain. The mental preparation should not be underestimated. It can be tough, and it’s good to visualize and pre-live certain scenarios, such as bad weather circumstances and physical hardship. There will be some Type 2 fun moments while climbing Mera Peak. If you have doubts, get in touch with me to go through all these variables.

There are some elements that you can’t control, such as the ability of your body to acclimatize to the extreme Mera Peak elevation. The trekking schedule is designed in a way that you ascend gradually to greater heights to get used to the lower oxygen levels in the air. Still this is not a guarantee you can cope, but it certainly helps. More about altitude, acclimatization and the recognition and prevention of altitude sickness further below.

The best season to climb Mera Peak in Nepal is generally during the pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (fall) periods. The two main climbing seasons are:

1. Spring (Pre-Monsoon)

- March to May is considered the best time to climb Mera Peak

- The weather is relatively stable, and temperatures are milder.

- The skies are clear, offering excellent visibility and stunning views of the surrounding peaks.

- The climbing conditions are generally more favorable during this season.

2. Fall (Post-Monsoon)

- September to November is another popular season for climbing Mera Peak.

- The weather is stable, and the skies are clear after the monsoon season.

- The temperatures are cool, making it a comfortable time for trekking and climbing.

- The views are excellent, and the autumn colors add to the beauty of the landscape.

During these seasons, the weather is typically more predictable, and the chances of encountering snow and ice conditions are minimized. Climbing during the monsoon season (June to August) is not recommended due to heavy rainfall, difficult trekking conditions, and increased avalanche risk. It's important to note that the Mera Peak weather conditions can still vary, and climbers should be well-prepared for changing circumstances.

Mera Peak is considered a trekking peak, a term that can be confusing. In Nepal it’s related to the altitude. Every mountain below 6600 meters is considered a trekking peak, regardless of the difficulty. Mera Peak is also called a “non-technical” mountain. Let’s have a look at both definitions and establish how we can classify the ascent of Mera Peak.

Trekking and mountaineering are both outdoor activities that involve traveling through mountainous terrain, but generally they differ in terms of difficulty, technical skills required, and the overall nature of the experience.

Here are the key differences between trekking and mountaineering:

• Difficulty and Skill Level: Generally less technical, no specialized climbing skills required.
• Altitude: Usually at lower altitudes, altitude sickness is less of a concern.
• Equipment: Requires sturdy hiking boots, appropriate clothing, backpack, and trekking poles.
• Objectives: Focus on exploring and enjoying the natural beauty, not necessarily reaching a specific peak.