Huayna Potosi Climb - All You Need to Know

We drive from La Paz to Paso Zongo (4700m). Once at Paso Zongo we drop our gear off in the hut and have some lunch. After lunch, we walk to the lower glacier, at the lower glacier the guides will explain and show some basic techniques for ice climbing and mountaineering. We will have the chance to practice these techniques with the guides and our climbing equipment. Later in the day, we will practice ice climbing techniques on small ice walls with safety ropes in place. After we walk back to the base camp where we sleep in a Refugio.

Drive: 1 ½ hour drive

Walking time: 2 hours trekking

Accommodation: Refugio

Today we have a relatively easy day up to high camp. High camp is on a rock buttress at an altitude of 5200m and at the base of the glacier. The walk up in on a well used path on rock. Once at high camp, we need to get our gear ready for the next day, as we have an early start in the morning. We also have time to rest and rehydrate. It’s an early night tonight where we sleep in the Refugio.

Walking time: 2 - 4 hours trekking

Accommodation: Refugio

We have an early start in the morning. We will leave around 1 am in the morning. It will be cold so we want to dress well. The climb starts on the glacier, so will start with our crampons on, and the rest of our climbing gear. The climb mostly follows a trail on the glacier. We have 2 steep sections, one at around 5600m, called the Pala Chica. The trail goes through a snow and ice wall. Once through this part, we keep following the trail on the glacier up to 6000m. From this point, we can see the summit above as. The last section to the summit is great climbing on an exposed ridge. From the summit, we can see from Illimani (6439m) to Illampu (6368m). After we take our photo shot on top, we head back down the same way to high camp. Once back at high camp we have a short rest and pack our gear. We then head back down to base camp to meet our transport back to La Paz.

Walking time: 9 - 13 hours climbing

Drive: 1-hour drive

We will pick you up from your hotel at 8:00 am and we will drive for around 3 hours out of the city and through the Andean highlands until we reach Rinconada (4500 meters) from where we start the trek.

After an hour of gentle uphill trekking past several small lakes, we arrive at the larger lake of Chiar Khota (4700 meters). From there we begin the steeper ascent of Pico Austria (5350 meters) for around an additional 3 hours until we reach the summit.

From the top of Pico Austria, we have a spectacular view of Mt. Condoriri, with its shape of a Condor with its wings spread wide, Lake Titicaca, the west face of Huayna Potosi, and numerous other peaks of the Cordillera Real. Our descent to Chiar Khota will take around 1 hour.

We will spend the night at Chiar Khota.

We will breakfast by the lakeside and break camp before beginning our trek to Maria Llocko. During our trek, we will cross over two passes, the first with an elevation of 5000 meters and the second with an elevation of 4900 meters. Along the way, we will observe the typical fauna and vegetation of the high altiplano.

After around 7 hours of trekking, we will arrive at our second camp, Maria Llocko (4700 meters). Maria Llocko is a scenic spot at the base of the mighty west face of Huayna Potosi and is where we will make our camp for the second night.

Today our 4-hour trek will take us from the west side of Huayna Potosi and over a pass of 5100 meters. After crossing over into the next valley, we will arrive to the base camp of Huayna Potosi (4700 meters).

We will have lunch at the base camp lodge and then walk 40 minutes to the base of the Old Glacier where we will practice basic mountaineering techniques and ice climbing. Later we will return to the base camp for dinner and overnight lodging.

Breakfast at 8:00 AM consisting of fruit salad, milk, butter, jam, bread, and various hot drink options.

We will have lunch at the base camp, pack our backpacks with all of our technical climbing equipment and personal items, and then hike for 2 hours to our high camp, located at 5170 meters. Upon arrival at our high camp, we will have hot drinks, snacks, and dinner and go to bed around 6:00 PM.

Our day will begin very early. Wake up time will be around midnight and we will get dressed with the climbing clothing and equipment and have breakfast.

Around 1:00 AM we will begin the ascent. We will have short breaks to rest and eat chocolates and drink water during the ascent.

We plan to arrive at the summit around sunrise in order to appreciate the wonderful view of the highlands, the surrounding Cordillera Real, Lake Titicaca, and the ever unique sunrise itself.

Our descent to high camp will take 2 – 3 hours and upon arrival, we will have vegetable soup and hot drinks. At the high camp we will re-pack our backpacks and make the 1-hour descent to base camp.

We usually arrive at our office in La Paz around 1:00 PM.