Upper Mustang Trek: A Journey into Nepal's Forbidden Kingdom

Behind the towering Annapurna Massif lies a wild, barren land in an ocean of snow-capped peaks. This is the Forbidden Kingdom of Mustang, also known as the Kingdom of Lo. It is isolated from the rest of Nepal and shares a border with Tibet. Once an independent kingdom, it was annexed by the Kingdom of Nepal in the 18th century. When Nepal became a republic in 2008, Mustang sadly lost its status as a kingdom. Upper Mustang remains virtually untouched with a unique culture and rugged mountain landscape. Having said this, the construction of a road is underway and may change the character of the region in the near future. More about this in the chapter “A Road Across Upper Mustang: The End of Mustang As a Trekking Destination?” further below. Go now while it still feels like a far-flung final frontier!

From Pokhara, the gateway to the Annapurnas, you hop on the spectacular flight to Jomsom. This is where you start trekking north into Lower Mustang and climbing to Upper Mustang, sometimes dubbed Little Tibet. You enter another world where it looks, feels and smells very differently. The route roughly follows the course of the Kali Gandaki River, which slices through the dry, barren land. People have been living, or perhaps surviving is a better word, for millennia in splendid isolation. Ingenious irrigation systems ensure the villages can grow their barley, potatoes and other vegetables. From a distance the striking green, terraced fields are true oases in an otherwise stark moonscape. Along the way you will pass many well-preserved gompas (monasteries), mani walls and stupas that you may be able to visit. The trek gradually ascends to Upper Mustang’s main town, Lo Manthang (3810m). Founded in 1340, this mysterious, walled “city” hasn’t changed much since that time. Reaching this place is literally the highlight of the trip, and we spend a couple of nights here to catch a glimpse of what life in this high, remote spot is like.

Most trekking destinations in Nepal are exposed to the monsoon rains that fall from June to half September. It is still possible to do the treks, but it may be a very wet experience with limited views. The Upper Mustang region is an exception. This high altitude desert lies in the rain shadow of the Annapurnas, and you can experience crystal clear days and dry weather this time of the year. Interestingly enough, the summer months are also relatively quiet. The best teahouses will be all yours. The most popular times of the year are spring and autumn.

In May the Tiji Festival is held. Many trekkers like to combine their adventure with this traditional festival. The three-day festival takes place on the premises of the former king of Mustang’s palace. The locals from far and wide visit Lo Manthang, Upper Mustang’s capital, to participate in the festival. You can go trekking in the Upper Mustang in winter, but it is bitterly cold and you need to make sure you bring the right equipment.

Trekking at altitude is never really easy. It takes time to acclimatize and there will be some huffing and puffing during the first trekking days. The Upper Mustang trek starts relatively high at 2800 meters, however, the elevation gain is rather gradual. Does that make this hike easy? Well, not quite. There are some long days in terms of distance, up to 22 kilometers. And the combination of altitude, dry air and strong winds can bring some discomfort while trekking. So while the trek is technically not hard, some days can be quite tough and demand stamina and determination. Make sure you’re fit!

The construction of a road from Jomsom into the Upper Mustang region in Nepal has brought a number of implications, influenced by both positive and negative factors, with a backdrop of China's involvement in the region. On the positive side, the road has notably improved connectivity, simplifying the transportation of goods, medical supplies, and people. This increased accessibility has the potential to create economic opportunities, particularly in the realms of tourism-related activities and trade. Supporting infrastructure development, including rest areas and fuel stations, could further contribute to the region's overall growth.

However, amidst these positive changes, concerns have been raised, particularly regarding the potential impact on the unique culture and environment of Upper Mustang. The increased human activity, notably tourism, has sparked worries about environmental degradation and the potential threat to cultural heritage sites. Socially, the influx of outsiders may trigger changes in traditional lifestyles and community dynamics.

Notably, the influence of China in the region adds another layer of complexity. China's strategic interests, economic partnerships, and infrastructure projects in Nepal may play a role in shaping the development of the road and its impact on the region. This could have implications for economic dynamics, cross-border trade, and regional geopolitics.

What does this mean for the future of trekking in Upper Mustang? The (dirt) road can already be driven by 4X4 vehicles all the way to the Chinese border. Trekking companies have diverted the traditional hiking routes away from the road, passing villages largely undisturbed by the new developments. The question is if the region can retain its unique cultural heritage and pristine mountain environment. Time will tell.

The trek in Upper Mustang is the only tea house trek in Nepal you can do without being affected by the monsoon rains that prevail in summer. In similar regions that dodge the monsoon, like Inner Dolpo and the far west of Nepal, you are required to camp. There is no continuous formal accommodation that enables you to do a full tea house trek.

Are the tea houses in Upper Mustang different from the ones in other Nepali trekking regions? Yes, they are. In Mustang the architecture is Tibetan, with flat roofs and distinct window frames. On the roof tops wood and shrubs are dried to be used as fuel in winter time. Don’t expect luxuries like on the Everest Base Camp trek. The region still doesn’t see many tourists and accommodation remains fairly basic, though very authentic. So while WiFi and hot water may not be available, you will have the chance to taste local food, such as yak cheese and yak butter tea. Staying in an Upper Mustang tea house is a truly local experience that gives you an idea how people in this part of the world live their lives.

To do the Upper Mustang Trek, you'll need two types of permits, both arranged by our local team in Kathmandu.

ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit)

Entering the Annapurna Conservation Area requires a permit priced at USD 20 per person. This permit grants a single entry and remains valid for the entire trek. It is also obligatory for the other treks such as the Annapurna Circuit and ABC trek.

RAP (Restricted Area Permit)

There is no specific duration restriction for staying in the ACAP area. However, those progressing into Upper Mustang (from Kagbeni onwards) need a Restricted Area Permit (RAP). This permit costs USD 500 per person for 10 days, with an additional USD 50 per day for extended stays. There is no TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System card) required for the Upper Mustang Trek as the Restricted Area Permit (RAP) is sufficient. It provides details of the trekker and his/her destination in case of an emergency or problem.