Hiking in Picos de Europa: Spain's Best-Kept Secret

What does Picos de Europa actually mean? As mentioned, the 'peaks of Europe' are close to the Atlantic Ocean coast, and the white peaks were the first thing sailors returning from North or South America saw. It signaled that they were almost home. The Picos de Europa span three different autonomous regions: Asturias, Cantabria, and Castile and León. The Picos consist of three distinct massifs within the Cantabrian mountain range, with the highest peak being Torre de Cerredo at 2,648 meters. The most distinctive peak in the area is Naranjo de Bulnes (locally known as Picu Urriellu) with a height of 2,519 meters. In addition to high mountain peaks, the region also boasts numerous deep caves, some of which are used to age cheeses.

After the Sierra Nevada, Picos de Europa is the second-largest national park in Spain, offering endless hiking possibilities. There are more than 60 peaks higher than 2,500 meters in the area, fortunately, you don't have to climb them all. Alongside the high peaks, there are also many lakes in the area, including the Lagos de Covadonga, which are former glacial lakes.

Being in a national park, there is a great diversity of flora and fauna. There are estimated to be over 1,750 species of trees, shrubs, and other plants present. From juniper to lichen and meadow flowers, you will encounter a variety of vegetation along the way.

The cousin of our mascot, the ibex, is the chamois (in the Picos de Europa, the Cantabrian variant), symbolizing the national park. In the past, chamois were nearly extinct due to hunting, but nowadays, you can encounter them high in the mountains. Also, the wolf, not just a topic of discussion in the Netherlands and Germany, has made a comeback in the Picos, and opinions are divided. The chance of encountering one is fortunately small, just like the brown bear that occasionally crosses over from a neighboring mountainous area.

Picos de Europa offers numerous opportunities for the most beautiful trekking and hiking experiences, ranging from short to long and from accessible to challenging. Bookatrekking.com has put together a hut-to-hut trek, allowing you to walk among the highest peaks of the area and fully immerse yourself in the surroundings. If you have already done a hut-to-hut hike and are looking to take the next step, the Picos de Europa offers a beautiful journey. The daily distances are limited, with a maximum of 14.5 kilometers covered per day. The first day involves mostly uphill climbing as you head into the mountains. It's important to take this into account and leave early. You must also have good footing and no fear of heights, as you'll need to climb and scramble during the stages. Additionally, the paths are often narrow and have a rocky surface. If you're seeking a picturesque hut-to-hut hike in a stunning national park, then the Picos de Europa is the perfect match for you! If the Picos de Europa is not what you are looking for, check out our other hikes in Spain. The Carros de Foc and the Porta del Cel are well worth checking out!

The best period for hiking in the Picos de Europa is from May to September. During this time, the higher-altitude huts and trails are accessible, allowing you to explore the most beautiful routes. Snow remnants may still be present on paths and trails until June. Keep in mind that July and August are the busiest months, while May, June, and September offer a more tranquil experience.

At Bookatrekking.com, we like to do things right, and when it comes to accommodation during treks in the Spanish mountains, that means staying in mountain huts. In these refugios, you can enjoy a bed, a meal, and in most cases, even a freshly poured beer or a good glass of wine. In the evening, you can play a game in the communal dining area, and when your eyes begin to close, you retire to your bed in the dormitory. Due to the physical exertion and mountain air, you'll undoubtedly fall asleep like a log.

In addition to staying in mountain huts, you'll also experience a 'casa rurales' during the Picos de Europa. Staying in these old farms or country houses is exceptionally charming, often in small villages or rural locations. With a personal atmosphere and a friendly host or hostess, you'll quickly feel at home.

In addition to the hut-to-hut trek, the Ruta del Cares is another highlight for hiking in Picos de Europa. While it's not part of our hut-to-hut trek, it's worth exploring if you have more time in the region.

This beautiful trail takes you back and forth along a deep gorge (La Garganta Divina, or the Divine Throat) through which the Cares River flows. In some sections, you’ll find yourself hundreds of meters above the river, so it's good to know if you have a fear of heights. The total distance of the hike is about 22 kilometers, starting and ending in Poncebos or Caín de Valdéon. The elevation gain during the hike is limited; the initial stretch from Poncebos goes uphill, and the rest of the route is mostly flat. Along the way, you pass by cliffs, through tunnels, and enjoy stunning views of the mountains and the river. If you find the total distance of 22 kilometers too much, you can choose to walk only from Poncebos to Caín de Valdéon or vice versa. In that case, make sure to arrange transportation back to your car or accommodation, for example, by calling a taxi.

We've already highlighted the natural beauty, but beyond nature and hiking trails, Picos de Europa has much more to offer for a delightful holiday.

We mentioned caves where local cheeses mature, with "queso cabrales" being a famous example. Additionally, almost every village has its own cheese, so tasting is a must. For enthusiasts, there's much more deliciousness to discover in Picos de Europa. Spaniards take their culinary traditions seriously, so always look for products with the D.O.P. (Denominación de Origen Protegida) certification. This ensures that the cheese, cider, or dry sausage you purchase is locally produced and of high quality.

Apart from the towering peaks, Picos de Europa is also renowned for its numerous caves. Formed over 60 million years ago, the soft limestone provided the perfect foundation for extensive cave systems, including Torca del Cerro del Cuevón (-1,589 meters) and Sistema del Trave (-1,441 meters). Torca del Cerro is Spain's deepest cave and currently the fourth deepest cave in the world. Due to the many caves and indentations in the landscape, one could whimsically consider Picos de Europa as resembling Swiss cheese, a delightful coincidence given the local cheese production!

By Plane:

If you are flying to Picos de Europa, the airports of Bilbao, Oviedo, and Santander are the closest. From Schiphol, you can fly directly to Bilbao. If you choose to travel via Oviedo or Santander, you will need to make a transfer. From the center of Bilbao, Oviedo, or Santander (travel from the airport to the city center), you can continue your journey by bus. Tickets can be booked through here.

It's important to note that from Oviedo, you can take a direct bus to Las Arenas de Cabrales. If you are traveling from Bilbao or Santander, you will travel to Unquera. From Unquera, you'll need to take a taxi to Las Arenas de Cabrales.

Summer Crowds:

Picos de Europa is popular, and in the summer, the region can experience traffic congestion. Therefore, there is a summer schedule with buses and minibusses to limit car traffic in the area. From Las Arenas de Cabrales, you can take a bus to Poncebos. From Poncebos, you can continue to Sotres by minibus. Buses depart every hour from Las Arenas starting at 10 am and return from Sotres starting at 11 am. The last bus in both directions departs at 8 pm. Tickets can be purchased on-site or through the Alsa website.

If you are driving to Picos de Europa, you can drive directly to Las Arenas de Cabrales. From there, it's another half-hour by car to Sotres. One consideration is to leave your car in Las Arenas and use public transportation to explore the Picos, as parking spaces in small towns like Sotres and Tielve are limited.

An emergency occurs when a human life (yours or someone else's) is in danger and there is nothing you can do to resolve the matter. You should call for help if there has been an accident, if someone is stuck, if you are lost or in trouble and can't go any further because of the time of day or weather conditions, or if you are stuck because of technical climbing challenges beyond your capabilities.

The most important thing to do in an emergency situation is to stay calm and survey the situation. Do not panic or take useless risks if those in need are difficult to reach. In case of an emergency, call the rescue services first and foremost. When you do so, be sure to communicate the location, number of victims and type of injuries. Then, if possible, protect the victim from cold or other environmental threats and administer first aid, if you can.

• General emergency number: 112
• National Police: 092

A hiking trip doesn't have to be expensive. Huts are usually simple but provide everything you need to recharge your mental and physical batteries for the next days of hiking. For a 5-day trek in Picos de Europa, including overnight stays in mountain huts and a rural house (casa rural), you can expect to spend around 90 EUR per hiking day. This includes route description, navigation assistance, accommodation in a mountain hut/casa rural, and half-board where possible. For hut-to-hut treks in general, we recommend bringing 40 to 60 EUR as pocket money. This covers lunch and your drinks. Most of our pocket money usually goes towards that ice-cold beer in the next hut!