Picos de Europa Hiking: Hut-to-Hut Trek, Map and Best Season

The Picos de Europa are a compact but dramatic mountain range in the north of Spain, part of the Cantabrian Mountains and close enough to the Atlantic coast that the sea mist rolls in regularly. Three autonomous regions share the range: Asturias to the north-west, Cantabria to the north-east, and Castile and León to the south.

Where is Picos de Europa National Park?

Picos de Europa National Park sits in the Cantabrian Mountains of Northern Spain, straddling Asturias, Cantabria and Castile and León, a short distance inland from the Bay of Biscay coast. Spain's oldest national park, it was established in 1918 and protects a landscape of limestone gorges, karst plateaux, caves and glacial lakes — including the famous Lagos de Covadonga. The highest summit is Torre de Cerredo at 2,648 metres; the most recognisable is Naranjo de Bulnes, known locally as Picu Urriellu, at 2,519 metres.

The name has a poetic origin: sailors returning from the Americas spotted the white peaks first as they neared home, so these became their "peaks of Europe". The limestone beneath the range is riddled with cave systems, some of which local cheesemakers use to mature Cabrales blue cheese. The glacial lakes of Covadonga sparkle in the western massif; deep gorges cut through the heart of the range.

Wildlife is one of the real draws. The chamois, the symbol of the national park, is the animal you are most likely to see on the high rocky ground. Griffon vultures and golden eagles are regulars, and the bearded vulture has been reintroduced to the range. Wolves live in the park again, though your chances of seeing one are very small. A brown bear occasionally passes through, but encounters are rare.

For walkers who want rugged mountains with fewer crowds than the best-known parts of the Alps, the Picos de Europa are well worth the trip.

Picos de Europa map: the three massifs and our route

The Picos de Europa divide into three massifs, and understanding their layout makes the whole area much easier to navigate. The western massif, known as Cornión, is the most accessible and home to the Lagos de Covadonga, reached easily from Cangas de Onís. The central massif, Urrieles, is the highest, with the Torre de Cerredo and the Naranjo de Bulnes. The eastern massif, Ándara, is the smallest. The Cares Gorge separates the western and central massifs; the River Duje separates the central and eastern ones.

Our hut-to-hut trek sits entirely within and around the central massif. It starts in Sotres, on the north-eastern edge, climbs west into the heart of the Urrieles to the Refugio Vega de Urriellu beneath the Picu Urriellu, then crosses the massif southward through the Jou Sin Tierre and over the Horcados Rojos to emerge at Fuente Dé on the southern side. The 3-day route returns to Sotres via the Áliva valley. The 5-day route adds a loop westward to the Refugio Collado Jermoso before returning through Espinama.

A map of the stages is included on this page. In the Bookatrekking app you see the route for each day on the map with your GPS position and the elevation profile, and you can download it for offline use or as a GPX file. Even so, carry a paper map as a back-up on the technical sections — the central massif can be confusing in low cloud.

This hut-to-hut trek is designed for experienced mountain walkers: not a first mountain trip, and not a beginner's hut-to-hut route. If you are confident on rocky, exposed terrain, comfortable following a GPS track where the path disappears, and have no fear of heights, this is a route that rewards the effort. If any of those conditions are not yet true for you, it is worth building up on a less technical route first.

Day 2 is the crux. The descent from the Refugio Vega de Urriellu through the Jou Sin Tierre is roughly T3 terrain for the first four kilometres: loose rock, exposed sections, scrambling with your hands, and stretches where the path is unmarked. Mobile signal is absent for a long section until you clear the Jou de los Boches. The rope that once helped hikers towards the Collado Horcados Rojos has been removed due to lack of maintenance, so route-finding at that point demands care. Ask the hut warden about current conditions before you set off, and do not underestimate how slowly T3 terrain eats into the morning. The good news: the descent ends with a cable car ride from El Cable down to Fuente Dé, saving a very steep and lengthy descent on tired legs.

The other days are not easy either. Day 1 climbs 1,140 metres out of Sotres — steep enough that an early start matters. On the 5-day route, day 3 adds another 1,150 metres to the Refugio Collado Jermoso; day 4 is the longest at 15.3 kilometres and a descent of 1,610 metres in about 7 hours 45 minutes, which demands good knees and trekking poles. For comparison, these days feel harder underfoot than a classic British long-distance path and closer to a scrambly Scottish mountain day.

Which option suits you?

• If you want the full experience — the Urriellu hut, the Jou Sin Tierre and the Horcados Rojos — in a long weekend, the Picos de Europa Loop covers the core in 3 walking days (about 34.6 km in total).
• If you want to add the quieter Collado Jermoso and its sunsets, the Picos de Europa Medium Trek in 5 walking days covers about 59.4 km with 3,980 metres of ascent.
• Arriving after a long flight or an overnight ferry? A hotel night in Arenas de Cabrales before and after the walking days gives you a gentler start. See the Loop Including Accommodation (5 days in total) and the Medium Trek Including Accommodation (7 days in total).

How to prepare. Train with long hill days carrying the pack you will use, ideally on rocky ground where you need your hands now and then, and practise following a GPS track in the app before you leave. Trekking poles help on the long descents of days 2 and 4.

Not ready for the technical terrain? Build confidence first on a less demanding multi-day route: hut-to-hut hiking in the Pyrenees is a natural stepping stone, and the Carros de Foc in Aigüestortes is another excellent Spanish alternative.

Picos de Europa walking holidays: self-guided, guided or with luggage transfer?

Picos de Europa walking holidays come in three broad forms. Guided group tours typically run as day walks from a hotel base, with a guide and transport laid on. Self-guided inn-to-inn walks with luggage transfer follow lower-level routes between villages, with your bags moved ahead by vehicle. Our offering is the third type: a self-guided hut-to-hut trek where you carry your own pack, follow the route using the Bookatrekking app, and stay in refugios booked in advance. No guide travels with you, and there is no luggage transfer — the high mountain huts simply cannot be reached by vehicle. If you specifically want a guide or luggage transfer, you will need a different type of operator; we are honest about that.

The best time for hiking in the Picos de Europa on the high routes is from early summer through to mid-autumn. Snow can linger on paths into June, and in the Jou Sin Tierre on day 2 often longer. July and August are the busiest months on all the popular trails; June, September and October offer a noticeably quieter experience on the paths and in the huts.

In winter and early spring, the high paths are under snow and a hut-to-hut trek is simply not possible. At those times, you can walk lower in the valleys, such as the Ruta del Cares, when the weather allows — but conditions can close trails without warning after storms or rockfall. Weather in the Picos changes fast at any time of year: sea mist and rain roll in quickly from the coast and can make the technical sections of day 2 significantly more serious. Checking the conditions before you leave each morning is not optional.

The Bookatrekking app shows the current weather forecast based on the coordinates of each hut, which is useful for planning each stage the evening before. You can also ask the hut warden, who will know the local picture better than any forecast. Our 2027 departures can be booked from 10 June to 31 October; check the trek pages for exact available dates.

All our itineraries start and finish in Sotres, the highest village in the Picos de Europa. Below you will find the stage breakdown for both the 3-day and the 5-day routes.

Picos de Europa Loop: 3 walking days

Picos de Europa Medium Trek: 5 walking days

Day 1 takes you from Sotres past the Invernales del Texu, a cluster of old shepherds' winter shelters, and the Refugio de la Terenosa (a welcome stop for a drink before the main climb). The views of the Naranjo de Bulnes grow with every metre you gain. The Refugio Vega de Urriellu sits right at the foot of the Picu Urriellu; the current building has been in use since 1990.

Day 2 is the most demanding and technical day on either route. After the T3 first section through the Jou Sin Tierre — a lunar karst landscape of grey rock and, in early season, snow patches — the terrain opens up across the spectacular Horcados Rojos. It is one of the visual highlights of the trek and a great place for photos. The cable car from El Cable down to Fuente Dé is a genuine highlight and saves a very long descent.

On the 5-day route, day 3 climbs through the wide Vega de Liordes and up the Canal de Pedabejo to the Collado de Pedabejo at 1,900 metres. The Refugio Collado Jermoso at 2,064 metres is renowned for its sunsets over the central massif. Day 4 is the longest — 15.3 km with 1,610 metres of descent in about 7 hours 45 minutes, demanding legs and concentration from early morning. Day 5 follows the Áliva valley north, crosses the Portilla del Boquejón and reaches the Ermita de la Virgen de la Salud before the long descent back to Sotres.

Picos de Europa hut to hut trek: 3 days or 5 days?

Three walking days cover the core of this Picos de Europa trek: the Refugio Vega de Urriellu beneath the Picu Urriellu, the demanding Jou Sin Tierre crossing and the Horcados Rojos, finishing with the cable car from El Cable. It is achievable in a long weekend, though travel from the UK or US means you will need at least a day each side. Five days adds the Refugio Collado Jermoso and the quieter southern side of the massif, and suits anyone who wants a more complete traverse and can manage the 15.3 km day 4. Note that the cable car at Fuente Dé is not included in the price: the ticket down (day 2) is bought at the upper station; the ticket up (day 3 of the 3-day route) should be booked online at least 24 hours ahead. If you want hotel nights in Arenas de Cabrales before and after the walking days, choose the Loop Including Accommodation or the Medium Trek Including Accommodation.

Where to stay in the Picos de Europa: refugios and mountain villages

The huts you will stay in range from the iconic to the comfortable. At the Refugio Vega de Urriellu you sleep in a dormitory beneath the north face of the Picu Urriellu; the atmosphere in the evening, with other trekkers and climbers swapping stories over a beer, is a large part of the experience. At the Parador de Fuente Dé or an address in Espinama, you get a proper bed after the hardest day. The Refugio Collado Jermoso at 2,064 metres is worth the climb for the sunset alone. The Posada Maximo in Espinama rounds off the 5-day route in a welcoming village setting.

In all the refugios, accommodation is in dormitory beds as standard; a private room, where available, costs 75 euros extra per room per night. Dinner and breakfast are included (half board); lunch is not, but you can buy it at the huts or order a packed lunch the evening before. Hotels where you stay include breakfast where possible.

Which town is the best base? It depends what you want to do. Arenas de Cabrales is the practical choice for walkers doing the Ruta del Cares and for those on our hotel variants, which start and end there. Sotres, the start and finish of our trek, is the right base if you want to explore the high central massif. Cangas de Onís is best for the Lagos de Covadonga in the western massif. Potes or Espinama are the natural bases for the southern side of the Picos, including the cable car at Fuente Dé. If you book with us, all accommodation throughout the trek is organised in a single booking; if you plan it yourself, you will need to reserve each refugio individually.

For day walkers, the standout option in the whole Picos de Europa National Park is the Ruta del Cares, following the Cares Gorge between Poncebos in Asturias and Caín in Castile and León. It is a route that has earned its reputation honestly.

Cares Gorge walk: from Poncebos to Caín and back

The Cares Gorge walk covers about 12 kilometres each way, taking roughly 3 to 4 hours in each direction. The gorge is nicknamed the Garganta Divina (Divine Gorge); the river runs far below a path cut into the rock wall, crossing bridges and running through tunnels carved into the cliff face. The route follows the canal built in the early 20th century to channel water to the hydroelectric plant at Poncebos, which makes navigation simple. From Poncebos, there is a sustained climb in the first section before the path levels off and the real drama begins. If you have vertigo, this walk is not for you: the exposure is genuine.

Going out and back from Poncebos is the simplest option and makes for a full day. One-way with transport back from Caín is possible, but the road round is very long, so arrange a taxi in advance. In summer, parking near Poncebos is regulated: leave your car in Arenas de Cabrales and take the shuttle bus to the trailhead. Start early in summer to beat the crowds and the heat, and carry more water than you think you need. Certain stretches can close after rockfall or bad weather, so check the current status with the national park or Turismo Asturias before you go.

The Ruta del Cares is not part of our hut-to-hut trek, but if you choose one of the hotel variants that start and end in Arenas de Cabrales, it is an easy addition as an extra day before or after your trek.

Some of the best hikes in the Picos de Europa are day walks, and beyond the hut-to-hut trek and the Cares Gorge there is a wide range of them, from easy lakeshore strolls to serious mountain days. The best approach is to choose a base that matches the massif you want to explore, then mix easier and harder days according to your legs and the weather.

Walking in the Picos de Europa: day walks beyond the hut-to-hut trek

The Lagos de Covadonga in the western massif are reached from Cangas de Onís. Easy walks link the glacial lakes Enol and Ercina, with wide views across the western massif on a clear day. In summer, access to the lakes by car is regulated, so check the current rules and the bus from Cangas de Onís before you go.

Bulnes is a car-free stone village that can only be reached on foot or by funicular from Poncebos. The funicular runs up through the rock; on foot you climb the Canal del Texu. Either way, arriving in Bulnes feels like a different world.

The Áliva valley, reached by cable car from Fuente Dé to El Cable and then on foot, gives a taste of high mountain meadows without the technical demands of day 2 on our trek. Horses and cattle graze under the peaks; the landscape shifts between open pasture and limestone crags.

The Vegas de Sotres, accessible directly from Sotres, are wide open pastures ringed by peaks — a gentle way to acclimatise on the day before the trek begins, with a natural spring to fill your bottle on the way.

Food and culture deserve a mention alongside the walking. Cabrales blue cheese is matured in the caves of the limestone massif and is unlike anything you will find in a supermarket at home. Asturian cider (sidra) is poured from a height in local bars, a ritual that aerates the drink and makes the first glass part of the entertainment. Look for D.O.P. (Denominación de Origen Protegida) labels on local cheeses, sausages and cider to make sure you are getting the real thing. Below the mountains, the cave systems are extraordinary: Torca del Cerro del Cuevón is one of the deepest caves in Spain.

If you want to extend your trip to the coast, the Camino del Norte follows Spain's north coast within easy reach of the Picos and makes a natural companion trip.

The most practical gateways are the airports at Bilbao, Santander and Asturias (between Gijón and Oviedo). Santander and Asturias are the closest to the northern side of the Picos where our trek starts; from Bilbao the journey to Arenas de Cabrales is longer but still manageable. Which airport has a direct flight from your home airport will depend on where you are travelling from — check each one.

From Santander airport: take the Alsa bus towards Llanes and get off at Unquera (about two hours), then continue by Alsa bus to Arenas de Cabrales (about 45 minutes) or take a taxi (about half an hour).

From Bilbao airport: take the bus to Bilbao Intermodal station, then an Alsa bus towards Llanes (about four hours) to Unquera, and on to Arenas de Cabrales.

From Asturias airport: take the bus to Gijón bus station, then an Alsa service directly to Arenas de Cabrales (about 2 hours 20 minutes).

From Arenas de Cabrales to Sotres: take a bus to Poncebos and a minibus up to Sotres, roughly 1.5 to 2 hours in total, or hire a taxi. The national park also runs a summer shuttle service on this stretch.

From the UK: Brittany Ferries sails direct to both Santander and Bilbao, which is a relaxed option if you want to bring your own car. If you arrive late by any route, stay the night in the nearest city and continue fresh in the morning; alternatively, our hotel variants build in that buffer night in Arenas de Cabrales.

From the US: there are no direct flights to these three airports. Fly into Madrid or another European hub and connect by plane, or take the train from Madrid to Oviedo, Santander or Bilbao. If you plan to drive, hire a car at the airport and leave it in Arenas de Cabrales: parking in Sotres and Tielve is very limited.

One important note: book your flights or ferry only after we have confirmed your trek. We confirm every hut and hotel with our local partners by hand after you book, and we want to make sure everything is in place before you commit to travel.

Stay calm, assess the situation carefully and take no unnecessary risks. If you or someone in your group is injured or stuck, call 112 (the European emergency number) and give the operator your location as precisely as possible, the number of people injured and the nature of the injuries. Then protect the injured person from cold and wind, and administer first aid if you are able.

On day 2, be aware that there is a long section without mobile signal, from the Jou Sin Tierre until shortly after you exit the Jou de los Boches. Before you set off each morning, tell the hut warden your planned route. On the technical sections — particularly in mist or if snow is present — stay strictly on the GPS track in the app. If conditions turn bad on the technical first section of day 2, turn back; do not press on into terrain you cannot safely descend.

Make sure your travel insurance covers mountain walking and rescue before you travel. Insurance is not included in the trek price. Keep your phone charged: the app also lists the phone numbers of your accommodation and the emergency numbers, and works offline.

A Picos de Europa hut-to-hut trek with Bookatrekking starts from 260 euros per person (for two people sharing) for the 3-day Loop and from 425 euros per person for the 5-day Medium Trek. With a hotel night in Arenas de Cabrales before and after, the Loop Including Accommodation (5 days) starts from 455 euros and the Medium Trek Including Accommodation (7 days) from 540 euros (prices as of October 2026; prices vary by departure date). Travelling solo costs more: from 310 euros for the 3-day route and from 510 euros for the 5-day route.

Included: all accommodation, half board in the huts, breakfast in hotels where possible, and the Bookatrekking app with offline GPS navigation, route descriptions and accommodation details.

Not included: travel to and from Sotres or Arenas de Cabrales, local transport (bus, taxi, cable car at Fuente Dé), lunch, travel insurance and personal expenses. Budget roughly 40 to 60 euros per person per day for lunch and drinks on the trail.

The cable car at Fuente Dé is not included: the ticket down on day 2 is bought at the upper station El Cable; for going up (day 3 of the 3-day route), book a timed slot online at least 24 hours ahead to avoid a wait.

You can book for one person or more; solo travellers pay the higher per-person price above. Cancellation is free up to eight weeks before departure. Is your preferred date not available? Contact us: we check alternatives and last-minute cancellations for you. After you book, our team confirms every hut and hotel with the local partners by hand, which is why we ask you to hold off booking flights or the ferry until your trek is confirmed. See full details on the 3-day Picos de Europa Loop page or the 5-day Medium Trek page.

How difficult is hiking in the Picos de Europa?

Day walks such as the Ruta del Cares through the Cares Gorge are moderate if you are reasonably fit and have no vertigo. Our hut-to-hut trek is a different matter: it is graded demanding, with roughly four kilometres of T3 terrain on day 2 involving scrambling, loose rock and unmarked ground. It is for experienced mountain walkers only, not a first hut-to-hut trip.

How long does it take to trek the Picos de Europa?

Our self-guided trek takes three walking days (about 34.6 km in total) for the core Loop, or five walking days (about 59.4 km) for the Medium Trek. If you add a hotel night in Arenas de Cabrales before and after the walking days, the total trip is five or seven days respectively.

Can you hike hut to hut in the Picos de Europa?

Yes. Refugios such as the Refugio Vega de Urriellu and the Refugio Collado Jermoso offer dormitory beds with half board, and our self-guided trek links them stage by stage. You carry your own pack; there is no luggage transfer to the high mountain huts. See the full details on the Picos de Europa Loop page.

What is the best hike in the Picos de Europa?

For a single day, most walkers rate the Ruta del Cares through the Cares Gorge as the standout, though "best" is a matter of taste. For a multi-day experience, the route from Sotres past the Picu Urriellu and across the Horcados Rojos to Fuente Dé combines technical interest with big mountain scenery.

When is the best time to hike the Picos de Europa?

Early summer to mid-autumn is the window for the high routes. Snow can linger on paths into June, especially in the Jou Sin Tierre. July and August are the busiest months on trail and in the huts; June, September and October are noticeably quieter. A hut-to-hut trek in winter or early spring is not possible: the high paths are under snow.

Which town is the best base for the Picos de Europa?

Arenas de Cabrales is the best base for the Cares Gorge and for our hotel variants; Sotres is the right choice for the high central massif and our trek start; Cangas de Onís is the gateway to the Lagos de Covadonga; Potes or Espinama suit the southern side and the cable car at Fuente Dé. There is no single best answer: it depends on what you plan to do.

Are there wolves in the Picos de Europa?

Yes, wolves have returned to the Picos de Europa National Park and live there again, though you are very unlikely to see one on the trail. A brown bear occasionally passes through, but encounters are extremely rare. What you are far more likely to spot are chamois on the rocky ridges, griffon vultures riding thermals and golden eagles overhead.

How long does it take to walk the Ruta del Cares?

Allow roughly 3 to 4 hours each way for the approximately 12 kilometres between Poncebos and Caín. Out and back from Poncebos makes a full day; set off early in summer to avoid the crowds and carry plenty of water.

Which airport is closest to the Picos de Europa?

Santander and Asturias airports are the nearest to the northern Picos de Europa, where the trek starts. From Bilbao the bus journey to Arenas de Cabrales is longer. All three connect by Alsa bus to Arenas de Cabrales; check which has a direct flight from your home airport before deciding.